Oh my god I loved Buenos Aires. If there’s one city I had to pick in a Spanish speaking country to live in for the rest of my life this would be the place. Even though I still have trouble understanding the porteños (Buenos Aires locals). It’s just something with that accent… if you’ve learned Spanish in Central America like I did, it’s like you’re hearing a whole new language in this city.
Ah well.. Don’t let that distract you. If you’re planning to go there or are in fact already there – I must say, I’m slightly jealous! I stayed in the city for nearly a month (based in the neighbourhoods of Palermo Soho and Colegiales), met so many cool locals and expats and had a superb time over there.
Even when your pockets are nearly empty you can enjoy this city so much – and that’s where this list comes in :). Below a lot of things you can see, visit or do without breaking the bank!
1. Free downtown Walking Tours
A good introduction to any big city – in my opinion – is a free walking tour. I did some research and had the feeling that Free Walks Buenos Aires was being viewed as quite a decent and popular organisation. Or they just knew how to promote themselves best in town haha!
No just kidding. Anyway, I joined both the ‘Morning Recoleta Free Tour’ and the ‘Afternoon City Free Tour’ with a fellow traveler and I have to say that I honestly liked both tours a lot. So I’m going to promote them as well :).
If you have little time, I would especially recommend you to join the ‘Afternoon City Free Tour’ as the guide of this tour was a young, cheerful and open-minded woman who was telling about a lot of political events in recent and older days.
It was a way great of understanding those difficult Argentinian decades of the previous century better. If only just a little.
2. Graffiti tour
No matter how long you’re planning on staying in Buenos Aires, I bet you’ll never have enough time to see all of the street art and graffitis in town, especially as the outlook on the walls just keep on changing every now and then.
I’d walked around Palermo Soho countless of times and had seen so many murals already, but little did I know about the stories behind them. And therefore I was super happy that I joined the graffiti tour of Buenos Aires Free Walks, for the small cost of 200 ARS / $ 5,- USD. Yes that is again the same organisation as from that previous tip, but this time (apart from the tip) there’s a minimum amount you have to pay for joining this tour.
If you want to discover the bohemian sector of Buenos Aires in an amazing way and a little off the beaten path way, I’d say, go for this tour! You’ll see the city in a different perspective afterwards, and that’s a good thing for sure.
3. Don’t skimp on Palermo Hollywood
Everyone is focusing on Palermo Soho, therefore yóu should go to its northern neighbour as well. Especially the streets north from Gorriti (Honduras, El Salvador, Costa Rica) are pretty lovely to stroll.
With as many options as Soho for eating acai berry bowls, drinking coconut lattes and eating ramen you won’t leave this neighbourhood hungry.
4. Cruise around the city with Bikes and Bites BA!
Okay, fair enough, this isn’t a free activity, buttt if you join Luana for a biking tour for $27,- USD you do have a terrific way of getting to know the city through the eyes of a local! Don’t expect to tick off the main highlights of BA, but prepare for a bit of alternative route with lots of lovely fooood (all included). And mate.
What I mainly adored about this tour was its variety; from urban hubbub in Palermo Soho, to a bit of Argentine history at the Parque de la Memoria, waterside serenity and street food at the Costanera and sophisticated parks and avenues at Palermo Chico.
The pace is fierce and the traffic loud, so if you aren’t used to cycling, just know that this isn’t the moment to master it. For the lovers of cycling; do as the locals do: jump in the saddle for a day and join Luana’s tour. Whether you’re new in town or not; there’s some in it for everyone!
5. Eat a heavenly desert at Ninina
This spot is the cafe located within MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires). Their service is kind of rude and not the fastest and yet I still would recommend this place. If only because the cooks do their job; they produce divine desserts and decent plates.
On top of that you can eat something in here at any given point of the day. That may sound weird, but very often kitchens in Buenos Aires are closed just right at the time when you as a European or American are suffering that major 7 pm hunger attack. And no, a medialuna and coffee will not always do at such a moment.
Most of the restaurants will open their kitchen again only after 8 pm. Not MALBA, order whatever and whenever you like at this spot, which serves beers and wines (and aperol spritzes!) and has a great terrace to chill out at too.
So go to Ninina if you want to check out that famous Frida Kahlo painting anyway!
6. La Boca
Yes it’s touristy. Some would even say a tourist trap. And yet you’ll still want to visit this colourful neighbourhood that bounces on the beats of the tango. Eat a chorípan in here at El Gran Paraíso, see the stadium that made Maradona famous (and vice versa), drink a coffee at one of the many open-air restaurants and soak up the vibe.
Come in here during the day, NOT at night.
7. Visit an exhibition at Fundación Proa
While you’re in La Boca, swing by at Fundación Proa. Although this requires a small entrance fee, it’s worth it. Proa features unusual exhibitions of cutting edge art. Quite a contrast to see when you’ve just visited the historic streets of La Boca. On the top floor you can also find a big book shop and a great cafe with superb view on the harbour.
When we were there, we saw a couple of photography exhibits and I really liked them.
8. Puerto Madero by night
Rent a bike and cruise down this area at night. It’s safe and with so many beautiful lights and fun restaurants around, you’ll be entertained for the whole evening for sure!
9. Visit Recoleta Cemetery
Conspicuous wealth isn’t limited to life on earth, so it would seem at the Recoleta Cemetery. Apparently the prices for a piece of land in here are the highest in the country and albeit a sad place, it’s one of the most popular destinations within the city. Some of the family graves are practically like little churches.
Apart from seeing that famous Evita Perón grave, it’s interesting to hear and read about the other graves in here as well. Take the one below for example. It’s a statue of a 26-year old girl on top of her grave. She died during an avalanche. Her beloved dog was buried next to her a couple years later. Rubbing his nose will bring you better luck in life than its owner, hopefully.
10. Eat in China Town
Don’t expect a China Town as exhilarating as the one in San Francisco or New York, but if you’re in the mood for some good dumplings or ramen, you just have to visit this area!
From the tracks at Parque Barrancas de Belgrano you can head onto Arribeños. This street is chock-full of Asian delights and you’ll have a hard time deciding. Just follow your nose in here I’d suggest! Many of the restaurants offer superb lunch deals, so come around noon.
11. Spot the Spock
Just a funny thing in between for my fellow geeks. Do you recognise this expression below? ↓
I didn’t knew this but apparently the famous Vulcan hand greeting from Star Trek, which expresses “Live long and prosper,” is based on a gesture made in orthodox synagogues during the blessing of the kohanim (the priestly class).
You can see this mosaic on the outside of the oldest synagogue in Buenos Aires: Templo Libertad. It’s still in use, but also stars a museum nowadays about the life of the jewish people in the area.
Buenos Aires is home to the only kosher McDonald’s outside of Israel and that says something about the jewish community in here. Not per se that they like McDonalds, but merely about its size. Today Argentina is home to around 250.000 jews, making it the sixth largest jewish community in the world, and the biggest in Latin America. The vast majority of them live in Buenos Aires. Intertwined with the history of Buenos Aires, it’s fascinating to learn more about their immigration to Argentina over the centuries in here.
12. Prep a picnic
Sandwiches! Tiramisu! Tapas! Everything at deli a’ Manger (in Palermo Soho) is just soooo good. And they have a new deal every day.
This also is your ultimate spot to go to if you want to prepare a picnic. They have great sandwich combos and the best tapas (think of stuffed peppers, cheese wrapped in prosciutto, grilled aubergine) and snacks. Try out their brownies with dulce de leche and walnuts too.
As for where to picnic.. there are so many parks around but I think the next one would make a decent spot ↓
13. El Rosedal de Palermo
Right above both Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood you’ll find this pretty garden with an even lovelier scent. Stretched out along a lake, this park is quite large and stars many strips of roses in all kind of colours.
You can sit down on one of the many benches in here and relax – just like the locals do. I’ve heard a couple porteños saying that this was their favourite spot in the city!
14. Be amazed by the dog walkers
Dog lovers – behold your dream job!
I thought these insane amount of dogs walking by from time to time was just quite a spectacle. Free entertainment to all. Except the dog owners probably. Look at this guy below for instance – what a magician, he’s even walking his bunch without holding them! Look mommy – no hands!
15. Stroll the area of Colegiales
I stayed in Colegiales for about two weeks and though this area isn’t that popular as Recoleta or Soho, I still think it’s worth a visit.
Colegiales is a tranquil heaven within busy Buenos Aires, with lush and cobblestoned streets and its corners marked with coffeeshops. On a sunny day you’ll see many locals hanging out in here in the parks and on the terraces.
If you need to relax a bit in between the sightseeing, go here for a cup of coffee or an ice cream at Rapa Nui (I got this tip from a local) on Av. Elcano: the heart of Colegiales!
16. The flee markets / ferias
After a month in Buenos Aires and my fair share of getting to know the people and their customs, I could tell the porteños really love being treasure hunters. They appreciate a good vintage find, crafty gifts, decent second-hand clothes and like to stack up on farmer’s food.
It’s probably the reason why their weekend markets are so awesome. I went to several corners of the city and visited quite some ferias over time. In here I’ll share with you what you can find throughout the city and whether going there is worth the effort or not!
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Feria de San Telmo
This outdoor market is the biggest of the entire city. It takes place on Sunday and should be included in your itinerary for sure. Even if you’ve already walked this street – Defensa – you won’t recognize it again during this day in the weekend.
From Plaza de Mayo all the way up to Plaza Dorrego, the street is absolutely packed with stands. Think of anything you need, and you might just get lucky in here. Leather jackets, Mafalda stickers, old records, Spanish and English books, vintage jewellery and so on. Allow yourself some time, as it’s usually rather busy in here and you need a slow pace to make it to the end.
Don’t forget to visit the indoor Mercado de San Telmo for a lovely lunch and some decent snacks. They sell the best falafel, empanadas and choripans accompanied with all kinds of stuffing in here!
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Palermo Soho:
For both spots can be said; if you’re around Palermo Soho during the weekends, try to make it here. You don’t need a lot of time to see what’s going on. Yet, these markets are great to add to a day of shopping!
* Plaza Armenia
During the weekend, a couple of stands surround two sides of this pet-friendly park in the middle of Palermo Soho. Again, expect quirky gifts like beautiful ceramics, hand-made dresses for Barbie dolls, decorative items for the garden and just very randoms products. Often the creativeness of the stuff sold in here made me laugh.
* Plaza Serrano
A 5-minute walk from Plaza Armenia, this next outdoor feria has more or less the same creative goods for sale, with a larger section dedicated to jewellery and art included. And like Plaza Armenia, this square is surrounded with bars and restaurants. This spot is especially famous for its nightlife by the way.
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Plaza Francia (Feria de Recoleta)
On Saturdays, make sure you go to Plaza Francia. To me, even though the San Telmo market is wayyyy bigger, this feria in Recoleta was my favourite outdoor markets of all. Perhaps because it’s so easily combined with doing other things in the neighbourhood. After all, the market is next to both the Recoleta Cemetery and the Museo de las Bellas Artes.
So much lovely stuff is sold at this square; copper rings and bracelets, cat-shaped cups, a fair share of typical landscape paintings, wooden tropical birds and hand-knitted hats, shawls and toys. On top of that you’ll can find a lot of food vendors in here, selling warm nuts, empanadas and sandwiches everywhere on the plaza.
Live musicians will brighten your mood in between the strolling. The sounds of their accordeons can even be heard all the way in the quietness of the Recoleta cemetery.
There’s a parking station beneath the Plaza, in case you want to safeguard your bike.
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El Mercado de las Pulgas
The only indoor market on the list, this flea market (the literal translation of ‘mercado de las pulgas’) is located between Palermo Hollywood and Colegiales. I was super triggered to visit the place because of the name, yet a little bit disappointed when I finally got there, as the main part of this market is dedicated to refurbished furniture, large landscape paintings and old Coca Cola ads. Not necessarily stuff you want to bring home from a trip. But there were also a lot of shops dedicated to jewellery and tableware. Go there if you’re in the neighbourhood, if not, don’t make the effort of the detour.
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Calle Peru
This small market is perched between Av. Hipólito Yrigoyen and Av. de Mayo. To be honest I’m not sure if it’s an official market or whether it’s around daily, but whenever I walked by on the famous Avenida de Mayo towards San Telmo, it was there.
The vendors over here are selling a lot of quirky and handmade stuff; creative gifts and some art mainly. Just have a quick look whenever you’re on your way to Plaza de Mayo.
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Centenario Park
This feria is spread out along the borders of the Centenario Park, nearby the neighbourhood of Villa Crespo. It’s really one for the locals though. As this was my first outdoor market I’d visited in Buenos Aires, I was a bit disappointed to be honest. It didn’t feature the quirky stuff I was hoping to find. But if you’re planning to stay in the city for a while, the stuff sold in here may come of use.
Expect second-hand clothing, electrical goods, utilitarians like socks and underwear, cleaning and hygiene projects. Apart from that, the park behind the market is worth a stroll too if you like to see how the locals and their pets spend their sunny weekends!
Here’s where to find all the markets:
17. Museo Nacional de las Bellas Artes
It’s big! It has a lot of paintings and sculptures of famous artists! It’s close to Recoleta Cemetery! Aaaand… it’s free!
Hop on in in here, even if you’ve got little time. It’s worth every second of glimpsing.
18. See the Floralis Genérica
Just because it’s right behind the Museo Nacional de las Bellas Artes and it’s just one of those symbols of BA.
Nothing more than a 5-minute visit, but if you’re lucky you can see it opening or closing!
19. Thé book shop: El Ateneo Grand Splendid
You might have seen this one in one of those “best bookshops around the world” lists. And with reason. The historic theater that used to host tango legends as Carlos Gardel and Francisco Canaro is now one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores. With the original frescoed ceilings, lovely balconies, theatre boxes, plush red sofas and stage curtains – the interior of the building probably is as stunning today as it was in its 19th century heydays.
There’s a little cafe in the back in case you need to work on your caffeine levels and if you’ve got another hour left as well you might want to spend some time reading a book in one of the theatre boxes – they are meant for that purpose nowadays!
20. Palacio de Aguas Corrientes
Close to El Ateneo (a 10-minute walk) you’ll find this gorgeous building, built in French Renaissance style ↓
You wouldn’t say from the outside that you’re looking at a water pumping station, but that’s what it is. Right in the middle of the center on Cordoba Avenue street. Palacio de Aguas Corrientes was built for this ‘watertank’ purpose in 1877 and still houses some offices that are part of the local water company. Apart from that you can find a small and quirky waterworks museum on the inside. But if you don’t have time for that, even the outside is worth a visit!
21. Stroll the Botanical Garden / Jardin Botanico
Jardin Botanico is a very well maintained garden with exotic plants and a greenhouse or two right in the heart of Palermo. It’s near the subte Plaza Italia and you can walk into the area for free. Don’t expect to wonder around in here for hours, but in case you need a little escape on a hot day, this is your downtown place to go.
In case you’ve seen The Fall (a very beautiful movie in terms of cinematography), one of the scenes has been filmed in here.
22. Get your dose of culture at Usina del Arte
The exhibitions differ greatly at the cultural center of Usina del Arte, housed in a former power generating plant. The building itself is already beautiful and located at the edge of Barracas, a neighbourhood close to La Boca.
This multi-functional artistic space is a favourite among locals and it seems like every day there’s something else to do in here. Check out their Facebook to see what’s going on at the time of your visit!
22. Have lunch in Villa Crespo at Malvón
I’m going to include this restaurant in the list, if only because this is one of my favourite spots in BA. By far!
Malvón is one of those places where you really can’t see the level of loveliness you’re dealing with on the outside.
It’s technically a bakery and restaurant in one. In my case it was the smell of the homemade bread that made me just turn around to this spot. I returned here three more times.
Go here for lunch. Malvón has a lovely 200 ARS lunch deal which is so filling that you may not have to eat for the rest of the day afterwards. It comes with a big main, a lemonade and one of their awesome desserts. On a hot day, you won’t regret the salads in here either by the way.
The pies, croissants and cookies at this spot are so incredibly yummy, the prices are right, the interior is cute and funky and the patio is the best place to chill out at during a Sunday brunch. So, what more can I say – just go there!
23. A visit to Tigre
I realize that once you’re there it’s very hard to leave the diverse city of Buenos Aires. But sometimes you just need a little breakaway from it all. Since Tigre is technically a (rather rich and lush) suburb of the city, this might convince you to spend some time over there. If only because the porteños like to go there themselves in the weekends :).
Just an hour away by train, the lush avenidas of Tigre make you breathe again on a sunny day. Tigre’s laid back town is nestled on an island created by several streams and river. The area was founded in 1820 and named after the tigers or jaguars that roamed the area. Shops, museums and big uptown houses have replaced the tigers ever since, unfortunately.
You can easily spend a whole weekend in here if you want to!
24. Gaucho feeling in San Antonio de Areco
This is another escape from the city! Just a two hour drive from Buenos Aires will bring you right to the empty lands of San Antonio de Areco. The key word in here is that iconic Argentinian figure, famous since ages: the gaucho.
This Argentinian cowboy may join the line of asado (Argentina bbq), wines, tango football, Evita Perón and mate when it comes to stereotypical things we might think off when we picture Argentina. But the skilled horsemen are more than that.
Life on the pampas with its solitary and nomadic lifestyles has a sweep of romanticism around it and the gaucho ultimately represents something that is a symbol of the freedom of Argentina. Perhaps also because they played such a big role in the county’s independence from Spain.
If you want to know more about the history of the gaucho, or experience a tranquil escape from the busy streets of Buenos Aires, a couple of days in the little town of San Antonio the Areco are well spend for sure. Try to plan your trip around one of the annual fiestas of San Antonio; including demonstrations of gaucho horse- and craftsmanship, asados and a lot of dancing! For the remaining of your time, check out in here what kind of stuff you can see, do and eat!
