As we had travelled for the last weeks in bone-dry areas of the salt flats in the south of Bolivia, the desert town of San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and the moonlike landscapes around Salta in the north of Argentina, we were in dire need of shaking off the crusty salts of our shoes and bags and quenching our lungs and soul with some green sceneries.
Luck had it that we heard of Tafí del Valle – a mountainous village some 100 km from San Miguel de Tucúman with a very special and fresh atmosphere, tasty cheeses, friendly locals and a lovely microclimate. To top that all off; foreigners barely know this area. Locals on the other hand love Tafí, so if you want to go to this Swiss-like town yourself it’s best to visit it during week days rather than throughout the weekends and the big holidays.
Tafí – the name itself already sounds so soft and lovely – is a hub for those who seek rest and tranquility, yet there’s a lot of things to do as well if you’re in the mood for some action. Find out in here how to get there, where to stay, hike, eat and shop!
The road
It’s quite a ride going to Tafí if you’re coming from Salta. Tafí del Valle is located in the Sierra de Aconquija, some 100 km from San Miguel de Tucúman. From Salta there are conveniently many buses going to Tucúman and they all take more or less 4 hours.
Once you’re in Tucúman there’s only one bus serving Tafí: Aconquija. Take note that you cannot pay with card at the counter this time. Only cash will do and the cost is 230 ARS one-way. The bus serves the route Cafayate – Tafí also, in case you want to visit that lush town too.
Tafí is located 1976 meters above sea level, so you can imagine the bus has quite a climb to make from Tucúman. But don’t despair, as the road is absolutely stunning. Most of the road will lead you along views like this ↓ and every hairpin bends will bring a new panorama (don’t read – I tried it and I can tell you it’s not a good idea!)
Welcome to the Alps!
Once you’ve arrived in Tafí you might need a minute to soak up the lovely mountain and lake sceneries. Take your time and have a look around. The pace in this town is low, so make yourself comfortable and get used to the cute Swiss-like cabins.
Hiking from Tafí del Valle to El Mollar
Like Tafí, nearby El Mollar has a special and tranquil character. Although I preferred the setting of Tafí, the road between these two tiny towns is worth an afternoon of hiking. It’s flat, so an easy one to walk, although it does take some 3 hours to conquer it all to El Mollar (that is one-way, you can always try to hitch-hike in case you get tired – we did!).
The wild horses, many little rivers, falcons, views on the lake and fields of flowers all along the way will keep you entertained for sure. And if you like dogs; there’s a big chance you’ll be accompanied by one of them too, guarding you all the way to El Mollar. Such a sweetheart.
Menhir park
Release your inner Obelix and have a look at the mysterious Menhir Park in El Mollar, while you’re there. Perhaps you’re not that interested in stones, but still you might figure it’s weird that you can encounter menhirs in here. I haven’t seen them anywhere else in South-America for the matter.
The sculptures belong to the Tafí culture and were found scattered throughout the valley. Many of them bear engraved signs and symbol that have yet to be deciphered, so give it a try!
Valle de la Ciénaga
I haven’t been here myself, but this valley is supposed to be a pretty one. And a fierce hike. It’ll take you three hours- that is, walking up! – to get there. The valley is situated at an altitude of 2600 meters and boasts excavated ruins and pretty views.
Shop the local specialties
What I really loved about Tafí were its many hand-made products that were sold in the quirky shops around town. Tafí is famous in particular for its local cheese, which is made from recipes that were introduced by the Jesuits centuries ago. But you can find local marmelades, sausages, honey and soaps in here too.
Stroll the Av. Juan Chalchaquí and the nearby Av. Pres. Juan Domingo Perón and discover your favourite, local speciality.
Indulging the sweet tooth at Flor de Sauco
Good coffee, delightful Schwarzwälder cake, decent wifi, a friendly staff and a cosy atmosphere: there are not that many nice cafes in Tafí where you want to hang out for a longer time – so if you’re in for a chocolate attack, go to Flor de Sauco for sure! I came here with a friend who basically replaced the blood in his veins for sugar and even he was satisfied in here.
Cascada Los Alisos
This waterfall is located some 13 km from Tafí. It’s possible to go here by bus if you want to spare yourself the first hike, as there is a trail you can follow around the waterfall too. In case you’re up for some adventure, you also have the option of doing rappelling in here!
Stay at Nuestro Destino and meet Juan
Five cute dogs and a cheery llama (named Juan) will welcome you at hostel Nuestro Destino, which is conveniently close to the bus station in case you have to carry a big backpack. Owners Monica and Marcela moved to Tafí to enjoy the tranquility of the town and turned this big cottage into a homestay. Both of them are always in for a talk and eager to share all of their favourite places in the valley with you.
The breakfast is varied and decent and with a big bbq outside it’s easy to throw your own asado.
Say hi to the seducer of Tafí de Valle for me!
