Exploring the gaucho town of San Antonio de Areco, Argentina

Just a two-hour drive from Buenos Aires will bring you right to the empty lands of San Antonio de Areco. The key word in here is that iconic Argentinian figure, famous since ages: the gaucho.

This Argentinian cowboy may join the line of asado (Argentina bbq), wines, tango football, Evita Perón and mate when it comes to stereotypical things we might think off when we picture Argentina. But the skilled horsemen are more than that.

Life on the pampas with its solitary and nomadic lifestyles has a sweep of romanticism around it and the gaucho ultimately represents something that is a symbol of the freedom of Argentina. Perhaps also because they played such a big role in the county’s independence from Spain. 

If you want to know more about the history of the gaucho, or experience a tranquil escape from the busy streets of Buenos Aires, a couple of days in the little town of San Antonio the Areco are well spend for sure. Try to plan your trip around one of the annual fiestas of San Antonio; including demonstrations of gaucho horse- and craftsmanship, asados and a lot of dancing! For the remaining of your time, check out in here what kind of stuff you can see, do and eat!

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes

As I wanted to learn more about the gaucho culture I was really pleased when I visited this museum and its peaceful surrounding. The place is located a bit outside of town, at an old estancia and is divided into several parts.

You start at the entrance with a recreated traditional pulpería – which is something like the towns pub -, see some old carriages in the garden and walk later on to the second building where there’s a permanent exhibition about the writer Ricardo Güiraldes and a room with an overview of the migration flows (of both cattle and people :)) to and around Argentina.

Although at first I didn’t really see the coherence of the different area’s and although most of the information is provided in Spanish, I still learned a lot about the origin of San Antonio de Areco and the evolving of the gaucho and its image. You kind of understand how life in the pampas must have been like before the modern day era. 

Visit one of the many other museums

Museo las Lilas de Areco, Museo de Arte la Recove, Museo Draghi, Museo Evocativo Osvaldo Gasparini… we didn’t had the time for it, but there’s an amazing amount of tiny museums in San Antonio. You wouldn’t need long for any of them, but to see them all might require a full day! 

I haven’t visited any of the ones above (only a exhibition at the Municipalidad de San Antonio de Areco), but a local told me that especially the Museo las Lilas de Areco is worth the time, as it has a beautiful courtyard with a lot of decorative tiles. 

Puente Viejo

This pinky bridge of the Rio Areco is an iconic image within town. You can encounter and cross it on your way to the Museo Gauchesco. During the weekends the park around it is pleasant to be at, as it’s filled with people that are chilling out, running their dogs and drinking mate. 

Get your sugar fix at Chocolateria La Olla de Cobre

A small shop with a little chocolate factory behind it. We basically came in because we were really cold and saw the fireplace burning and stayed for the hand made chocolates. The friendly lady behind the counter is eager to let you taste your favourites if you’re up for it!

Buy some alfajores for sure. They are rrrrreally good in here. 

Buying cheese, limoncello and sausages at El Batará 

Oh how I loved this place.. deli cafe El Batará is one of the cutest shops in town with a historical look and feel. For such a small place it has a great selection of local cheeses, wines, meats, bread and souvenirs. 

So if you’re looking for the better pastrami and cheese sandwiches for a picnic or just something to  bring along the road, this is the place to be. They also have one table, in case you’re immediately up for a picada and a glass of wine. When we were there this table was taken by a couple and their pet parrots! So strange!

Shopping time

Now that you know San Antonio is a marvellous place for cheese, wine and chocolate shopping, I need to add that there’s more. So much more. A quick walk around the main square thought me there are so many craftsmen in here. Leather, soaps, quilt, knitted clothes, silverware; you name it and you’ll find it hand-made in San Antonio. Visit the Pasaje de El Tokio for example, or the two shops next to the municipality. 

Wandering the streets

We visited San Antonio in autumn and its streets were just so lovely around that time of year. If you have some time left, just walk around aimlessly. Who know what pretty facades you might encounter too!

Have a beer at the square: El Mitre or El Tokio

Both El Mitre and El Tokio are located at the southern corners of the square and have a traditional decor that provides ample opportunity for people watching. Even during the cold winter days, when the streets are deserted, you can find townsmen in here. Especially at El Tokio you’ll encounter them playing cards or chatting over a beer or coffee with medialunas.  

El Mitre also offers some decent (priced) mains, whereas Bar Tokio has the better ice creams and pies and tarts of this town.  

Where to stay? At Casa Fuego!

If you want to get the true gaucho experience you might decide to stay a night at one of the estancias outside of town. Estancia La Portena de Areco is a popular one for example. Or Estancia El Ombu de Areco. Or Estancia La Cinacina. Choice enough and most of the times activities such horse riding and food are included too. But a stay over here comes with a price tag. And another downside of staying in here is that you might not explore the town of San Antonio de Areco itself so much. 

As the estancias were a bit above budget we decided to opt for Casa Fuego. This lovely Airbnb is close to the main square of San Antonio and lives up to its name. Owners Katalina and Fernando are eager to light up the fire for you at those colder winter days. Breakfast is good in here, you might come across a very shy greyhound and in the background you’ll hear the laughter of the couples’ three kids. 

Since Katalina is an artist, the house is just basically one big tableau you’re walking in. It adds a fun vibe to the pink gaucho house. Her paintings and objects are vivid, usually involve a bird or two and are just absolutely gorgeous. I sincerely hope that upon return in a couple of years every mural in town has been painted with her birds!

Here’s where to find those gaucho hotspots! ↓