The Mayan ruins of Yaxha, Guatemala

WHAT: An afternoon visit to the Maya ruins of Yaxha  

WHERE: Yaxha is located some 30 km southeast from Tikal. From Flores it's 69 km, on the way to the 
Belize border

HOW LONG: Agencies in Flores and El Remate offer organized trips to Yaxha, some combined with Nakum 
and/or Tikal. From Flores it'll costs you $20,- for return transportation

HOW MUCH: The entrance itself is Q80, if you're going with a tour it's probably already included

Deep into the Guatemalan jungle lies an ancient city of the Maya civilization: Yaxha. It’s one of the few that kept its original name. The Mayan pronounce it as Yash-ha which means ‘blue green waters’. Since the old city has been build next to a very bright lake, that does make sense. 

Yaxha is the third largest Maya city, after Tikal and El Mirador, in Guatemala. The charm of the city lies in its surroundings, the temples are are part of a large protected area of sub-tropical rain forest. Though most people only opt to go to Tikal, the quietness of the area, the sheer size, the large number of well restored buildings and the overwhelming flora and fauna all make Yaxha really worth visiting as well. Tikal is indeed larger, and though I visited that Maya city before Yaxha, I absolutely loved wandering around the latter.

The city was reported for the first time in modern age by the Austrian explorer Teobert Maler, in 1904. He was actually rowing on the lake and noticed the elevations within the jungle. Pretty convinced there must have been something Maya beneath it, he began his excavations immediately. The site nowadays became known to the bigger crowds after the tv reality show ‘Survivor: Guatemala – The Mayan Empire’ was filmed here in 2005.

Archeologists estimate that the town was inhabited for a period of somewhat 1600 years, starting 600 bc. During its heyday in the 8th century, it was home to a population of 20,000. So far, a number of 9 building have been identified as temple pyramids. The other 400 plus ruins discovered so far include acropolises, two astronomical observatories and three ball courts. 

It takes at least a couple of hours to admire the main groups of ruins, with or without guide. We actually started with a group including guide, and though I’m sure he did his best, we were quiet annoyed by his extremely loud voiced that screamed across the forest. So we took the road to freedom and walked the rest of the road on our own, far away from his excessive frequency.

Since the main excavations are all very close to one another this and signs and explanations are provided everywhere, going on your own is a very manageable choice. However, in the case of Tikal I would advise you to take a guided tour. The guides simply know how better which road to take and what paths to the temples are allowed to climb. 

After a walk of an hour or two in Yaxha, we climbed some stairs and ended at the highest point; the Templo 216. It’s situated at the Acrópolis Este (East Acropolis), which affords magnificent views in every direction, especially around sunset. Therefore I’d recommend to go to Yaxha in the afternoon, look up some information beforehand and wander in the quietness of the jungle, with only getting interrupted by the sounds of the birds.

Here’s where to find Yaxha!