Centrally located within the Yucatán Peninsula near the Gulf of Mexico, Merida is the largest city on the Mexican peninsula. It’s a great stopover if you want to experience some real city life, but it also serves as a convenient base for day trips to the region. The archaeological sites of Uxmal and Chichén Itzá are both quite close for example, or reach out to the natural reserve of Celestun where you can see flocks of flamingos, swim in one of the freshwater cenotes or visit one of the pueblos mágicos (magical towns) like yellow-painted Izamal.
All sounds quite nice right? Nevertheless Mérida isn’t an easy city. Compared to Valladolid or Bacalar it takes a little while before you understand it. I encountered quite some travellers who didn’t got the ‘wow-factor’ in Mérida. I understand, you have to dig in a bit to get the good stuff out.
Food wise it’s quite the same. All of the goodies are a bit hidden. Luckily we walked around town a couple of days and tested out quite a few restaurants and cafes. These were our favourites by far!
Breakfast
Sukra Bar de Café
Of all the places where we had breakfast in Mérida, this was my favourite. The plates are big (think of french toast, quesadillas, paninis, huevos rancheros), the smoothies juicy and the staff is very lovely too. And you get a little cookie with your coffee – now that’s something I like!
The best of Sukra however, might be its setting: in front of the cafe there’s a big garden with huge trees, located right on the Avenida Paseo de Montejo. It’s a great spot to hang out at after a big brunch and to see the hasty folks walk by.
Organico Café
Although the interior could be spiced up a little, this is another decent spot to hang out for either a coffee or a breakfast. If only to read the many quotes (in Spanish though) that compare coffee and friendship. Quite a few epic one-liners are written on that wall!
Most of the options are vegetarian or even vegan (sometimes difficult to find in Mexico). But this is especially the place to be if you’re a true coffee addict. I had an ice latte and everyday for the next two weeks I was really longing for that whenever the sun was shining bright. Such a cooling cup of coffee. Taste it if you can!
Lunch
Tobala 58
A couple of blocks north from the main square, this spacious restaurant on the corner has some excellent ceviche, served by friendly folks. Apart from (vegetarian) ceviche you can eat great taco’s, tostadas and tuna steaks in here, so there’s some for everyone.
If you’re on a tight budget, walk on in during the early hours as Tobala 58 serves great breakfast deals with taco’s.
Kinich Izamal
Technically, this restaurants requires a 45-minute drive, but I’m going to include it in this Mérida list anyway, because it would make for a great excursion from the city!
Izamal is a super cool and cute town east from Mérida and all its houses are painted in just one colour: yellow.
And it was all yellow, yes indeed.
Apart from strolling the streets there’s little to do in here, except for enjoying a great lunch at Kinich Izamal. Two blocks north from the main square you’ll find this lovely gem. Women dressed in the local, embroidered clothes welcome you and will seat you to a very lush patio. Both food and drinks are excellent. Expect typical Mexican dishes from the region, such as queso relleno (‘filled cheese’), tortillas, black bean soup and cochinita pibil (slow roasted pork). I loved this place and would absolutely recommended you to go to Izamal for a couple of hours.
Dinner
Mercado 60
A food court! The first and last one we spotted on the Yúcatan Peninsula. There are lots of food carts in this patio where you find all kinds of (finger food) stuff: poke bowls, ceviche, ramen, pizzas, truffle fries, chicken wings, goat cheese salads aaaaand of course taco’s!
The atmosphere is absolutely awesome in here, but unfortunately most of the dishes are quite small. So even though you think you can enjoy a cheaper night out, you’ll end up ordering wayyy more than you thought would accompany your beers with.
So I’d suggest to only come here for a drink (the court opens after 6 pm) and an appetizer before moving on to the next spot →
Ave del Paraiso
Satay sauce! Tom Kha! Spicy papaya salad! Red curries! Swiss chocolate cake! What’s not to like in here. Run by a Mexican-Swiss couple, this place brings you the best Thai food in the whole city (so I’ve been told, and I’m eager to believe it).
Ave del Paraiso is a bit out of the center though, but you can still walk around in the area at night. Otherwise it’s a short Uber ride. Arrive in time though! We walked in at 8pm and had to wait for half an hour as there are only few tables and it’s a popular spot amongst the local expats!
Here’s where to find the spots in Mérida!
And Kinich Izamal in Izamal!
