WHAT: A celebration for Porto’s patron saint, São João, but most of all a perfect excuse for a crazy party WHEN: Every year on the 23rd of June HOW LONG: When the sun sets in the festival starts for real, but the city is already preparing for it for days! The festival runs until the early hours of the next day HOW MUCH: It's a city festival and therefore out in the open and totally free!
Whenever abroad, attending a traditional celebration is a splendid way to absorb the local culture. In case you want to know the locals of Porto and their attitude, it’s absolutely worth it to plan your trip around the 23rd of June: the night of the party celebration for Porto’s patron saint – São João – and the Mediterranean answer to Midsummer parties.
Although the religious backdrop might seem very strict, for the local Portuguese the festival has evolved into an excuse for a lot of dancing in the streets and even more drinking and eating. This gorgeous city is said to be the capital of fun in Portugal after all: while Lisbon works, Porto plays.
For sure it’s great fun to join the locals along their festivities – as we know ourselves by experience :). Though we weren’t planning on it, we ended up in Porto funny enough during the festival and on the shores of the Douro we were very happy to have encountered one of the most underrated street parties in Europe. Up to this day the festa is still little known outside of Portugal. Of course that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying the sceneries – you won’t be alone as more than 200,000 people take part in it!
Preparations begin several days in advance, with each neighbourhood dressing up with a lot of colourful decorations. As the evening progresses on the 23rd, the level of excitement rises in the city. The beer and barbecue comes out, live music blares from loudspeakers and people begin hitting the persons (it’s more like gentle taps, really) on the heads with colourful plastic hammers, fresh leeks or garlic (yes, really…). Other traditions included are jumping over bonfires (to prove your courage) and offering friends potted basil plants decorated with handwritten poems. So strange right?!
Next it all devolves into a giant all-night beach party, culminating in a spectacular firework display and hot air balloons launching over the river Douro while lightening up the sky over the Ponte Dom Luís. This part lasts some 15 minutes, and starts usually around midnight. So make sure you are by that time by the river, especially since you’ll need to share the view with thousands of other spectators!
I think the river Douro is the perfect backdrop for this festival. The city in its entirety is: it’s great fun walking around the little streets around night, while everybody is happy and smashing each other’s head with plastic hammers. Back to that, apparently the origin of the tradition of beating the one you love with that stuff is unknown. It feels like it is some weird kind of flirtatious attack, like seeking attention by acting annoyingly. Although in between you’ll always encounter that kid who’ll put a lot of force into the “gentle attack”. Just be happy it’s a plastic hammer. And take an extra big sip of your cerveja afterwards to ease the pain.
