Ah Portland. Even if you’ve been watching the comical sketches of the Portlandia series I can guarantee you that you’re most likely not prepared enough for the hipster levels vibrating in this town. Brace yourself. Seriously, the Oregonians even know how to make celery hip in this city on the Pacific Northwest.
Berlin’s equivalent in the USA is to be found right here. The scene is set and the dream of the 90s is alive in Portland. Indie bands (“I liked them before they were popular!”), a feministic gift shop (@ Division Str, true story), people singing about saving the world, waiting lines everywhere, second hand shops, kale and brussel sprouts growing on the streets, vegan ice cream, Star Wars costumes for pets, local tomatoes for $2,- by the piece… just look around and absorb the entertaining vibe and comments all around you. And eat! Because like the hairdresser at Division Str. said to us – “that’s is the single best thing to do in Portland”.
Though it might be tempting to stay downtown during your trip, try to cross the river to the other side of the city as well. My personal favourite was the area of Richmond, around the Division Str. and Hawthorne Boulevard. The lush streets over there are decorated with wooden, colourful houses – porches and rocking chairs included – that would even make Pippi Longstocking feel right at home. And myself as well, because all of the mocking beside, this place just really has something. Keep Portland weird!
Day 1
10 am – Portland Farmers Market at Portland State University (Saturdays only)
On Saturdays do as the locals do and visit at least one market. On my first day in Portland my hubby and I hopped around 5 of them, all around town. But this one was my favourite.
Portland Farmers Market is big, has a lot of quirky stands with loads of locally made products (vegan, gluten free, hemp-heavy bits and all of that included of course) and a huge food corner. But the best of it all might be its location: downtown, yet at a very lovely tranquil spot. There’s room enough in the park to sit down and relax and to digest all of the veggie curries.
11 am – Voodoo Doughnuts
Get in line! Or refuse and be amazed at what a long wait there is in front of this downtown donut shop. I chose the latter and was stunned that people where eager to wait for 30 minutes, just for a donut. The fillings and colourful toppings seem attractive indeed, but still. Perhaps it’s the atmosphere that creates the attraction: a combination of neon pink and gaudy-gothic. I heard someone in line saying that you can only work here if you look a bit ‘goth’ too.
Whatever you think of it, Voodoo Doughnut does their marketing right for sure. Throughout the weekend it seems like 1 in 5 wants to be seen with their typical pink boxes. So it’s a Portland legend for sure!
11:30 am – Portland Saturday Market
Close to Voodoo Doughut there’s another nice outdoorsy market. It’s worth visiting if you want to stock up on presents. Located in Waterfront Park and Ankeny Plaza in Portland’s historic Old Town the Market this is a great spot to browse some local handcrafted goods.
Some 250 artists gather each week for this Saturday and Sunday event. Accompanied by live music and international delicacies ranging from Polish pierogis to Caribbean jerky chicken – there’s some for everyone in here.
1 pm – Lunch at Alder Street Food Cart Pod
Apparently there are over 500 food trucks in Portland. It’s biggest downtown chunk is a collection of Portland’s famed food carts located between Southwest Alder and Washington streets, from Southwest Ninth to Southwest Tenth avenues.
The variety is good and so are the prices. Think of what you’re longing for and you might find it in here, although chances are also quite high that you end of with something completely unfamiliar. Iraqi kebab, Turkish shawarma, Hawaiian poke or Indonesian gado gado – fuel up at the food cart pod!
2 pm – Powell’s city of books
Got a thing for bookshops? Powell’s is a book lover’s dream! The only disadvantage of Powell’s might be that it’s just too overwhelming. I really had to sit down for a second to soak it all up.
You could spend your entire day over here, but at least make sure to check out the ‘rare book’ section – full of quirky finds and antique books.
3 pm – Nob Hill area
On your way to the next highlight, make sure to include a Nob Hill detour. The Victorian houses on NW 21st and NW 23rd have turned into a delightful hipsterhood. Artsy shops, a dog cafe, pizza parlours – it’s a really fun scene in here!
5 pm – Portland Rose Garden in Washington Park
Some 10.000 roses (550 varieties) infuse the air with a lovely smell in the western uphill corner of Portland. Visiting the area is free and you have a nice panorama of the city from up here too. On clear days you might even see Mt. Hood. At least, rumour has it.. Plus you might be able to buy a perfect gift for your mother(-in-law) or friend in the gift shop in here.
This is not the only spot in Washington Park of interest. Conveniently enough, you can hop along the free shuttle service (every 15 minutes) that brings you to many attractions in the park. Visit the nearby Japanese Garden for example, or walk one of the many trails of the Hoyt Arboretum.
Day 2
10 am – Portland Art Museum
Portland Art Museum aka PAM is a small downtown museum, but its exhibits are amazing and ever changing and therefore worth a visit. Its permanent collection stars lots of Native American and Central American artefacts. Most of the paintings and photographs have been purchased from local artist, although there are also quite a bit of European impressionist paintings to be found in the second – yet connected to the main – building.
The set-up of the museum is a little odd, but it all just feels very Portland like – weird. If you prefer not to pay the full price ($18,- USD per person) – the Museum offers free museum admission on the first Thursday of every month from 5 – 8 pm. Also, after 5 pm on Friday you only pay $5,- USD each.
1 pm – Stroll the area of Richmond
The area of Richmond was really giving me what I was looking for in Portland. I just wanted to see some of those gorgeous and colourful Victorian houses. Porches and all included. Especially the area south of Division Str. has got the most beautiful and quirky buildings in store for you. From time to time I even felt a slight envy for the people living in here.
Don’t be surprised when you’re secretly trying to pick your dream house in here! I did too 🙂
3 pm – Division Str. / Hawthorne Blvd: gift collecting and eating
Both streets are filled with happy places and faces. Set a couple of hours aside to stroll these boutique filled streets and make sure to eat at least at one of these places – as food is all around:
- Pok Pok: Asian foods / great atmosphere / cheap eats
- Bollywood Theater: Indian snacks / outdoor patio / cheap eats
- Salt & Straw: perhaps the best ice cream of the city – you’ll smell the fresh made cones from far away
- Seasweets Poke: Big bowls of yummy poke for a sweet price
10 pm – Stay at an Airbnb in Richmond
Like to stay around? Check out this Airbnb just a couple of block south of Division Str. It’s basically like a mini-oasis in Richmond.
The owners live upstairs and it’s clear to see that they are pretty creative, as the house has a lot of quirky features. There’s a beautiful flower garden with a pond (and a couple of kitties every chasing the fish out here) too in case you need a break from it all.
Do you have more time to spend? Make sure to escape the city for a while and visit the Mt. Hood area – awesome in case you love hiking!
Here’s where to be in Portland!
