5 towns to visit at Lake Atitlán

Lake Atitlán just has something special. Though it’s not totally disconnected to the world, it feels like you’re travelling around a parallel one within Guatemala. The people in here have been living their life on these shores for centuries, only being disturbed by the tourists that came in the last couple of decades. Okay, not like they became superold or something, but you know what I mean.

Whether you’re looking for a yoga retreat, love luxury stays, are on a Mayan culture quest or in for some tranquility, every village has another purpose to fulfil. Though there are many a deal of Mayan villages around the lake, you’ll most likely only visit a couple of those with a lancha, a small boat. We choose to visit five places on the west side of the lake, that seemed most interesting to us. You can reach and wander around in all of them in one day. Here I tell you want kind of atmosphere you can expect in each of them:

Panajachel

Let’s start with the biggest hub on the lake. Panajachel is probably the first village you’ll encounter, whether you come from Guatemala City, Antigua, Quetzaltenango or Mexico. Since this is the gateway from the lake to the rest of the world, the town of Panajachel – or Pana as the locals call it – is very very busy. This also means there are a lot of big supermarkets and tempting restaurants around in case you’re planning on returning to the town after a day full of town-hopping. From up here it’s also easy to do a day trip to the markets of Chichicastenango. Apart from all of that, though it’s tempting, don’t stay to long in this place! The following lake towns have a lot of charm to offer too. 

Santa Cruz La Laguna

You need a quick, 10 minute boat ride to get here from Panajachel. If you’re short in time and only want to visit one of the villages around the lake, make it to this one. It’s a though hike from the pier to the top, but once in town, a magnificent view over the lake will reward you.

Apart from wandering around and drinking a cup of coffee near the main square, there’s not a lot to do, but that’s basically the charm of this town. In contrast to the other villages, there are no overwhelming market people in here pushing you to buy something. If you want to do some shopping, the best – perhaps only – place is a weaver hub near the market. This workplace is part of the CECAP program. You can do cooking classes in here as well. If you want to stay longer, this place is also perfect to improve your Spanish, since it stars even a language school!

San Juan La Laguna

Though slightly touristy, I still loved our visit to this small village in the southwestern corner of the lake. It was the second best village in my opinion of all. San Juan is quiet and tranquil with welcoming people. It has one short street full of embroidery and painting shops and a couple of cafes on the side to take a break in between.

Visit the herb shop – almost at the top – for some nice soaps and teas. Or walk around one of the many painting galleries, where locals will proudly explain everything about their items in store. From here, it’s possible to go by foot or tuk tuk to the next destination. 

San Pedro La Laguna

If you’re a backpacker and plan on staying for a little while at the lake; this is your place to be. Though small, San Pedro has it all; hostels, language schools, cheap souvenirs and awesome street food (even Japanese!). And above all of that, the atmosphere in the village is very friendly. 

A bit more uphill is where the locals live. If you have the time, stroll through this area too, to balance your image of San Pedro. 

Santiago Atitlán

On an inlet between the volcanoes of Tolimán and San Pedro you’ll find this big hub. With a population of about 48,000, this is the capital of the proud and independent Tzutuhil people; one of the largest indigenous communities in Guatemala.

The town is of political importance too. Santiago Atitlán resisted political domination during the country’s civil war, which meant that many residents were murdered and were taken away by the military. After a 1990 massacre in which 11 unarmed people were killed, the villagers protested the presence of the army in their town. To everyone’s surprise, the army actually left, and Santiago Atitlán became a model for other highland towns fighting governmental oppression.

The community is still a proud one I noticed while taking photos. The best place to go to in the city is the market square, all the way up in town. On the square dozens of elder men and women are chattering with one another, where you meanwhile can hear the screaming of the market people selling their goods a block further on the road. Go to Santiago Atitlán if you want a taste of the real life around the lake.