I ended up in Suriname – also know as Guyana Holandesa in Latin America – at the end of my long, long trip in the Americas. It was my very last destination. Well, almost.. as I ended up adding the neighbouring countries Guyana and French Guiana to the itinerary :). But from all of the Guyanas, Suriname was my favourite by far!
I intensely loved my days in Paramaribo, the tranquil capital of Suriname. Perhaps because the end of my trip was in sight or because I was tired of being on the road for so long. Anyway, I was quite happy to stay in one town for a little while.
Paramaribo has a kind of 90s feeling. It’s as time has stood still in here. There isn’t perse a long list of things you need to do in Paramaribo, nor is this city a very shiny one. In fact, it’s very dilapidated and it therefore reminded me of our home town Limón in Costa Rica. It felt like home.
Despite the worn down vibe, Paramaribo really has a pleasant charm that you just need to experience. That sounds a bit corny perhaps, but it’s really true. All you need to do to understand this city is to walk or cycle around and talk to locals.
An add for canned beans
As I am Dutch, a trip to Suriname has an extra meaning to me. Suriname used to be a Dutch colony and you can still feel this throughout town. Things that I’ve heard about or I could vaguely recall where finally given an association. Although the population is an extreme hotchpotch – there are so many backgrounds in here; Marron, Hindustan, Cantonese, Jewish, Boeroes, you name it – many of them still speak Dutch fluently. Also, there’s a giant population – about the same size of people in Suriname – of Dutch people that have a Surinamese background. Eurosuri’s they are called in Suriname.
I had one course during my university days where I learned a bit more about the colonial history of the Netherlands, but this trip for sure was way more informative to me. I think a visit to Suriname would be quite interesting to any Dutch citizen.
The 'insta sign' near the Kleine Waterstraat
Or any wild lover!
Suriname is a splendid destination if you want go on a big jungle expedition. The forests are chock full of furry monkeys, giant snakes (eeks!), colourful birds and tranquil sloths. A quick drive from Paramaribo and you already reach forests that are basically edges of the Amazon.
Whatever you want to do in Suriname, you’ll cross paths with Paramaribo for sure; and in my opinion that ain’t a punishment at all. Don’t expect greatness though, but if you’re looking for a very unique off-the-beaten track destination in Latin America, this it it!
Here are my best photos and some tips for you what to see and do in town. Or better; where to stroll. Also stay tuned for more information about cycling around Paramaribo and trips in the area!
Beaut of a house at the crossing of Julianastraat and Van Roseveltkade
The famous peanut soup at Souposo
View on the Suriname river as seen from the Waterkant with the giant 'Bosjesbrug' (the bridge) in the background
The entrance of the St. Vicentiushospital
A colourful outlook in the Prinsessestraat
- Start the day with a breakfast at Zus & Zo. This is just the best spot in town if you’re looking for comfort food, a giant coffee or to get your trip started. They’ve got an information center next to the bar, a bicycle rental agency around the corner and one of the best shops for gifts right above the restaurant. Also, if you’re looking for company in Paramaribo, this really is the place to be. I had the feeling there are so few tourists in Suriname (which is absolutely amazing), that the staff even knew I was a newbie in town. Or maybe the mañana mañana vibe just wasn’t upon me yet.
- Take a stroll along the Waterkant (the boulevard along the Suriname river) and be amazed by the endless chocolate milk substances that are floating with great speed from the Amazon to the Atlantic. Vivacity is never far away, especially if you’re entering the docks near the central market. And also, is that thing in the middle of the river a rock or a boat?
Paintings at Zus & Zo with the Ministry of Finance tower in the background
Ad for the local newspaper
There are so many herbs and strange fruits (at least rather extraordinary to me) at the Central Market of Paramaribo
Entrance to Fort Zeelandia, the old defence structure of the city that now is hosting a museum
- It was a bit unclear to me to discover the opening hours of the Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral, but try to walk by a couple of times to see if you can join a ceremony. After days and days of trying I finally was able to see – just a couple of hours before my flight took off – that giant wooden interior. Suriname claims this is the biggest wooden cathedral in the world. I’ve heard this stuff before, but whether it’s true or not, the pinky church for sure is impressive, both inside and out.
- Dive into the pool of the fanciest hotel in town: Royal Torarica. This is one of the better places to be during Sunday, when the rest of the town is in complete sleep mode.
There was some kind of race going on during one of the weekends I was in town. For once this city was surprisingly active
All of the local buses are adorned with singers. I'm not sure why, but it's entertaining for sure.
The Palmentuin (Palm Garden) during golden hour. Wear a helmet if you're about to visit this spot.
One of the oldest schools of Paramaribo at the Henck Arronstreet. I wonder if it ever received an update since its opening in 1887.
- For (a light) lunch, visit Souposo; the best place by far to taste the many typical soups of Suriname. They have a couple of tasty, daily specials, but especially don’t forget to try out the peanut soup. Quite an experience.
- For the best local feeling, visit the Central Market (along the Waterkant). Note that people in Suriname in general are little appreciative of making their pictures without their permission.
Sight at the Palmentuin from the Henck Arronstreet
The Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral. Its interior is supposed to have the biggest wooden structure in the western hemisphere. Or the world according to others..
Selecting herbs at the Central Market
A couple of streets in the center of Paramaribo are totally covered in white. Quite an elegant outlook, albeit the painting is very chipped
- For a bit of adrenaline rush in between of all that way too relaxing atmosphere, visit the Palmentuin; literally Palm Garden. The fellows in here are absolute giant and the coconuts in here keep on falling. That said, I wouldn’t recommend to bring a visit over here during a blast of wind… also, perhaps you should bring a helmet. I personally walked around with my arms covering my head.. ridiculous perhaps, but after a couple of years in the tropics I know better. Pretty garden nevertheless 🙂
- For some quick highlights, walk around the Independence Square (where all the flags are nicely lined up), take a look upon the Presidential Palace and the Fort Zeelandia Museum (once built to protect Suriname from attacks).
There you go; the inside of the Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral
The view from my Airbnb. I loved this deck. Many colonial houses have these lovely terraces. Great to spy on one another!
Check out that cigarette!
The entrance of the Palmentuin
- Rent a bicycle at Zus & Zo and try to explore the streets a little up north. At the bicycle shop they provide several routes in case you don’t want to cycle around aimlessly.
- If you’re up for it, you can even cycle all the way to New Amsterdam or other plantation across the river on the Commewijne side. You can easily cross the Suriname river by boat (and take your bicycle along). I immensely enjoyed this day cycling around on the other side of the river and I’ll upload another ‘how to’ article about this day shortly, just to spread that joy.
Another dilapidated beaut.
This picture is nothing special you may think. But I though it was quite extraordinary that a mosque and a synagogue are standing next to one another.. even sharing the parking lot. It tells a lot about the peaceful coexistence of the many groups in this town.
I took my bicycle for a ride on the other side of the Suriname river: the Commewijne
Sign in the outskirts of upper Paramaribo. The sign means 'heron street'.
- Eat a finger licking good roti – one of the typical Surinam dishes – at Roopram Roti or Roti Shop Joosje. Finger licking, literally as the people in here eat their roti without forks and knives. Opinions are very much divided and stern in town by the way about which roti shop best. If you want to experience a heated discussion, ask a some locals what the best place is that one can find in Paramaribo when it comes to roti or ‘pom’
- Or if you’re in the mood for more fancy stuff; go for a steak at the SMS Pier Terrace. The cook offers a whole new menu every day. It’s limited, but he makes sure he gets all the ingredients from local producers and to provide every meal with a twist!
The many boats in the dock are waiting for the last passengers to bring them back to the city
View on the Jessurunstraat from above
A little church along the Grote Combeweg
The icons of Paramaribo, painted next to cafe Zus & Zo
Here’s where to find the spots! ↓
