About the day I went to a Mayan herbal healer in Belize

When in I was staying in Hopkins I had a conversation with an expat regarding the different mosquito diseases in the Caribbean. She told me she suffered herself from chikungunya some years ago. Chikungunya is a viral infection lesser known than for example zika or malaria, but it can make you very, very sick as well. There aren’t any vaccinations to prevent it, nor are there medicines to cure it, but in general you will survive it. You just have to sweat it out for a while. 

As this local woman had heard of a nearby Mayan herbal healer, she – an extremely down-to-earth person – thought there would be no harm in trying out a healing session. Thus with a high fever and muscle pain she set out to Aurora, who performs consultations at her clinic along the edges of the Belizean jungle. 

At the hands of Aurora the Healer she underwent a ‘spiritual cleansing ritual’ and was given natural medicines, which she skeptically took the same evening. The woman woke up in the middle of the night drenched in sweat, fell back to sleep and the next day… all was well. The chikungunya infection had passed. 

Say hi to Aurora! ?

I was slightly fascinated by this story. Since I’ve been living in Costa Rica I became a little more aware of these traditional medicines. After all, folks in the jungle have relied on natural treatments for centuries. By botanical trial and error they have learned which plant can cure which ailment and how they have to prepare it.

Aurora herself uses locally harvested herbs and treats everything with it; from a common cold to emotional issues. All of the rituals were taught to her by her uncle, Don Eligio Panti, who was a famous Mayan healer. Just google him if you like. I read that Panti’s knowledge of traditional healing methods was known by medical researchers as well. Panti, who learned about plants while working in the jungle to extract chicle / rubber, contributed for example 500 plants to a program being conducted by the National Cancer Institute, that would be useful in treating cancer and AIDS. Visitors from all corners of the world came to visit his humble hut in Belize, for all types of treatments. Often as a last resort. All in all quite impressive for a man who couldn’t read nor write. 

Now why would I go to the herbal healing clinic myself? Mainly out of utter curiosity; I just really wanted to see those botanical plants! But the premise of Aurora being able to heal a lot of stuff was interesting. I would say I’m fairly healthy for a 30-year old, but from time to time I do suffer from stomach ache attacks, like many people. I’ve already had this for some ten years, did several test and have heard all kinds of advices from doctors and non-doctors what to do about it. All of these advices may actually carry some truth in them, as for everyone who has had this type of stomach ache, something else seems to be working. Like herbal healing, it’s a game of trial and error I guess. 

Anyway, I was able to bring in a physical reason while visiting Aurora. Her Herbal Clinic is nestled just off the main road from Belize along the dirt road to the Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve. It’s a short bus ride from Hopkins and another short walk from the main road. I just set out without an appointment and without any expectation. I decided that every experience basically was a good one :). 

Aurora, a very upbeat and tiny woman, warmly welcomed me. She also immediately warned me she had little time for me that day, as she was about to give a herbal cooking class. If Aurora isn’t searching for herbs or doing some treatments, she likes to cook in the Mopan and Yucatec Mayan style; and that includes a lot of herbs obviously. 

Apart from that, she also maintains a medicinal plant trail, which you can visit for $5 BZN / $2,50 USD per person with a self-guiding leaflet or for $25 BZN / $12,50 USD per group for 30-minute guided tour.

Her herbal shop is quite big and stars a lot of ‘medicines’ for all kinds of issues. Think of back pain, fungus or arthritis. In between her other duties, Aurora sneaked into her herbal shop where I was browsing through the shelves and told me a bit about the herbs that could help me out regarding my stomach. On top of that she said she needed to feel my stomach and give it a massage to better address the problems. 

Now I’ve had massages before, but a stomach one was certainly something new…

In one of the wooden cabins I laid down and Aurora started to firmly press in my upper belly. The first point she was pushing was hurting so much that I almost lost it. I quickly learned this wasn’t gonna to be a relaxing massage – at all..

The rest of the 5 minutes were merely torture rather than giving me relief. Aurora told me I had too much post-traumatic stress in my stomach, advised me to avoid certain foods for a little while and gave me a (very bitter, blegh!) root that I had to drink until my stomach ache would stop. 

She also considered it necessary to perform a ‘cleansing ritual’. I had no idea what was about to happen, but just sat down patiently… more than ready for anything other than that cruel stomach massage. 

Taking my two hands, Aurora rubbed my arms with a couple of leafs as she chanted quietly, sending prayers to her deities. Mayan languages are super complicated, so apart from my name, I couldn’t understand a single thing of what she was saying. But I thought it was fascinating for sure. Unfortunately I couldn’t make pictures, as I was just by myself, plus I happened to be the subject of this slightly unusual ritual. 

The entire experience alone was worth the visit and although I haven’t been fanatically using the roots that Aurora gave me… yet (as an excuse; it’s always difficult to follow strict regimes while travelling), I promise I’ll make an effort back home. I’d tried them out once though and that’s how I learned that the root is super bitter. At least it gives it this Harry Potter-potion kind of vibe.

So I’d say, inform in another six months how I’m doing if you’re curious :).  

Apart from the entire happening, Aurora just was a lovely woman to meet and she gave me some other great advices too along the way, regarding her herbs and treatments.

Anyway, whenever you’re around, I’d say give her a visit. Who knows in whatever way she may help you out :). She also gives shoulder massages, although I highly doubt right now these will comfortable. Or try the cooking classes, these seemed pretty great too! 

Here’s where to find Aurora. ↓ Everyone in the village knows her, so in case you might get lost, the friendly folks in Belize will help you out for sure. And let me know how your visit went of course!