WHAT: A (half)day trip to the village of Masaya and the volcano WHERE: Masaya (village and volcano). The village is 17 km from Granada, Nicaragua HOW LONG: That depends on how you'd like to travel. We went by taxi, left around 3pm and returned at 9pm. We stopped after the visit to the volcano to get dinner in Masaya too. HOW MUCH: We paid $60,- for two persons for a private taxi for the entire trip, coming from Laguna de Apoyo, admission to the volcano included.
If you’re going to Granada or Managua, a visit to Masaya is a great day trip to consider from both these cities. Masaya is an artistic village based in the middle of the two. The 150 thousand inhabitants of the town are mostly musicians, wood workers and painters.
Masaya is known for two things. Firstly, its markets – El mercado Artesania and the Mercado Municipal Ernesto Fernández. Secondly, the National Park (Parque Nacional Volcán) right next to the city with an active smoking volcano as its highlight. Quite unique it is that you can drive all the way to the volcano top by car. If you want to combine the two features, it’s best to visit the markets in the afternoon, right before you go to the volcano crater at nightfall. This way you can enjoy the lava of the volcano the best!
City of Flowers
But let’s start with the market. The Nicaraguan poet and national pride Rubén Darío baptized Masaya as the ‘City of Flowers’ when he saw the enormous amount of flowers in the parks of the city. Indeed, the folkloric town remains very colourful, especially the markets. Though you might expect it, the city is far from packed with tourists. Most of them skip the town and go straight to the volcano.
At the Mercado Viejo, or Old Market, you will find mainly artworks and souvenirs. All streets are filled on both sides with small wooden stalls. Other things to find in here are soap, leather bags and wallets, cigars and shoes. The vendors aren’t pushy at all, and quite friendly too. Still, they convinced us to buy some very weird piece of art: a small chair in the form of a tiger. I have no idea what to do with it. Anyone interested?
If you’re looking for clothes or food in Masaya you should visit the Mercado Municipal Ernesto Fernández. This market is a lot bigger and more chaotic than Mercado Viejo.
To the fires of Mount Doom
After your afternoon in the old city it’s time to check out the majestic volcano. You can visit the Masaya volcano both during the day and in the evening. Most persons opt for the latter and that’s very understandable. The volcano is currently one of the few places worldwide where you can see the lava flowing beneath you. The magma is even better to see when the rest of its surroundings are darkened.
Since night visits are popular, you’ll most likely experience long lines and a limited viewing period. Some sites say that it’s recommended to make reservations at least one day in advance. We went if February and experienced that this was not the case. You just have to be in time. Do stay a bit up to date with the conditions of the volcano though.
We had to wait in the taxi for about an hour. Many vendors next to the waiting line are try to ease the waiting game, with Toña beer, cookies and chips. Smart guys. Once finally through the entrance you ride all the way to the top and have some 15 minutes to gaze at the magma in the crater.
As soon as you peak over the edge it’s really as if you look into the gates of a hellish place. As a true ‘Lord of the Rings’ fanatic I couldn’t resist mumbling some Mount Doom phrases too. I hear a couple of guys on my right side doing the same and see how they’re trying to convince one of them to throw his wedding ring to the bottom.
Meanwhile hundreds of bats are flying in and out of their caves beneath us. They resemble black birds, contrasting the orange and red backgrounds of the magma. The original inhabitants of Nicaragua believed that the active volcano was a god. In times of drought they threw children and maidens as sacrifices in the hot lava, so as to induce rain. Suddenly a ring doesn’t seem to bad after all. In later times the people of Masaya thought that a witch was living in the crater. The locals climbed all the way to the top to seek her advice if they had to make important decisions.
Nothing important we have to decide ourselves for the rest of the evening, except where to eat. Our time at the crater’s up. We have to make place for the next group that’s waiting in the dark to see the crater. As we eat our burrito’s at La Mestiza, a very nice Mexican restaurant in the middle of Masaya, we can still feel the heat of the lava on our face.
If you like to stay in the area, go to the nearby Laguna de Apoyo. The lake is also in the national park Volcán Masaya and is a perfect place to take a dip and to enjoy the birds and the tropical forest.
