WHAT: A (half)daytrip to the market of Chichicastenango, the biggest traditional market in Central America. WHERE: Chichicastenango, some 140 km west of Guatemala City HOW LONG: Most buses from Panajachel stop about 4 hours in Chichicastenango. This is enough time to explore the market, the nearby graveyard and have lunch. The bus itself takes about 2,5 hours each way to get to and from Chichicastenango HOW MUCH: It's free! Though if you come from Panajachel a retour ticket by mini-bus will cost you $15,-
The market in Chichicastenango really is a fun thing to visit while you’re in Guatemala. This enormous traditional market, the biggest one in Central America, is held two times a week: on Thursdays and Sundays. Though there are quite some tourists too at those days, Chichicastenango remains a very authentic village. Yes, there are many vendors aiming at tourists, some of them a little too hard, but most of the goods for sale are actually intended to be bought by the thousands of Mayans.
All of the products at the many creaky self builded stands come straight from the surroundings lands. Thus, on the way to the market in the early mornings you already see minivans stuffed with flowers, tomatoes, carpets, or you name it. All in all, the town really makes you feel like you’re in the heart of Guatemala.
Little escapes from the market
Next to the market rises the 400-year-old church of Santo Tomás. The vendors believe it’s needed to sacrifice a little bit in order to sell a lot that day. Therefore you see many men and women walking in and out of the church with candles, incense or even food.
Vendors are also willing to lower their prices if it’s their first sell of the day. They consider this as a sign of luck as well. That means that the earlier they sell their first item, the more they will sell overall that day. A friend of mine got a pretty nice discount like that when she bought a tablecloth in the very early morning.
Another nice escape from the market is the graveyard. Yes alright, this sounds a little weird perhaps, but this truly is a very impressive place. The graves are painted in a lot of bright colours and provide a pretty view on the city and the surroundings too.
If all of these impressions and buying of souvenirs has made you hungry I can recommend you to go Casa de San Juan. It’s a cute restaurant in one of the alleys of the market close to the Santo Tomás church. They have a good and reasonably priced menu, plus you can take a rest in the patio as you watch the business of the market go by.
Several ways to get there
Now how to get there? There are many starting places of your tour to Chichicastenango. We stayed ourselves at Panajachel, because from there you can easily book a tour to the market and we considered the lake a pretty relaxing place to stay a couple of days.
There’re also minibus tours from Antigua, or you could go by public transport, which is also safe as long as you watch your belonging. From Antigua you have to take a so-called ‘chickenbus’ to Chimascastenango for 10Q. Once there you take a second bus to Chichicastenango for 25Q. It will definitely save you some money, but it also takes quite a bit longer.
Keep in mind that the market already starts early and that the prices suddenly rise when the tourist buses enter the area (around 10am). Thus most locals do their shopping very early in the morning. Perhaps you might consider a sleepover at the city itself, to be sure you can see the early hustle and bustle of the market too, but don’t expect any fancy hotels in the area.
Good luck and enjoy! And here’re where to find that awesome market!
