WHAT: A road trip along The Georgian Military Road WHERE: The road runs 220 km from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz, but most visitors only do the Georgian part - that is from Tbilisi up to the mountains of Kazbegi HOW LONG: You need at least at day explore both the road and Kazbegi. The road itself towards Kazbegi will take some 3-4 hours, but you want to stop in between for the sights. In Kazbegi, stay at least for the night, but if you want to do justice to the area, opt for two. HOW MUCH: A split cab from Tbilisi to Kazbegi will cost you some 70-80 GEL (€30,-). If you arrange it at your hostel, it might even be a bit cheaper. You can also opt a mashrutka (like a minivan public transport). That'll cost you some 10 GEL (€3,50). I took a cab on the road towards Kazbegi (because the driver can often stop) and a mashrutka on the way back. For me it was perfect like that.
The most spectacular thing I’ve seen – by far – while travelling in Georgia was The Georgian Military Highway. If you’re planning on visiting the Caucasian country, I can’t but recommend the road. Even if it’s just for the scenic drive. The route links Tbilisi with Vladikavkaz in North Ossetia, and is the main road between the Caucasus and Russia. Consequently, it has been an important historical route for both trade and military purposes, between Europe and Asia from early times.
Apart from this geopolitical strategic location, the ancient passage over the majestic mountains of the Caucasus is a spectacular one. It used the be a simple and dangerous track, until the Russians finally converted it after the annexation of the Caucasus – by the Herculean efforts of 800 soldiers – into a carriage road.
Pushkin followed this route in 1829, as many other great Russian writers, such as Lermontov, Gorki, Tolstoy and Mayakovsky followed him. Because of their stories and adventures, awareness about the greatness of the Caucasian mountain range has been spread. I too was inspired by their words.
Unfortunately at the time of visiting I couldn’t pass the border, so I only visited the Georgian part of the road, until the scenic mountain village of Kazbegi. If you’re eager to do the same, make sure to arrange a taxi or mini-van via one of the ho(s)tels. Everyone has a connection or relative who’d be happy to bring you there.
Ask if there’re more people who’d like to join, so that you can split the costs. Also ask the driver where he’ll stop underway (and make sure you’ll include the points below!!). Return from Kazbegi to Tbilisi back by public transport. That way, you’ll travel the road on a budget, while still be able to get the most out of it! Here’s what to expect from the drive:
Halfway the ride you can make your first scenic stop at Ananuri, on the banks of the river Aragvi – around 70 km north from Tbilisi (a 75 minutes drive). The main reason to take a break over here is the Ananuri Fortress, that dates back to the 17th century. Although not so old in the great scheme of all things Georgian, this place has a rich history.
Most of all it’s fun to go here because everything is organized a little different than with most historic monuments. You’ll won’t need to buy a ticket in here, nor are there explanatory signs, or tours, or guard rails. Therefore you can really explore the site, while getting up close to everything. Don’t spoil it for the ones that come after you – even though you have all the freedom in here, keep in mind that history is there to be preserved.
The surroundings of the hill above and the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir below are very pretty too. The chapel itself is still in use by the locals, so be appropriately dressed for it (head, shoulders and knees covered as everywhere in Georgia). The place is recommended to UNESCO and included for consideration.
Stay focused however, the many curves along the way can make you very sick.
After Ananuri my driver continued up north to the Jvari pass. Over here starts the Tetru Aravgi river valley, which is scenic enough to make it difficult to decide where to look. Stay focused however, the many curves along the way can make you very sick. Especially when you experienced a real night out in Tbilisi right before your adventure..
Before you know, you encounter one of the weirder monuments in this world. Although the relations between Georgia and Russia haven’t been warm in particular throughout history – and especially the last years – the Soviets established in 1983 a remarkable, mosaic, half-round, concrete mural between Gugauri and the Jvari pass: The Russian Georgian Friendship Monument. For me seeing the monument was even more ironic, since I couldn’t even get into Russia at the time.
But back to the monument. It’s old and in bit in decay, but nonetheless rather impressive. Inside the monument is a large tile mural that spans the whole circumference of the structure and depicts scenes of Georgian and Russian history. With the gorgeous mountains in the backdrop and the Devil’s valley beneath you, stopping here is quite a must in my humble opinion. If only for a minute because of the breathtaking views.
A little drive further down the road – and at the end of all of it – you’ll reach the most northern part of Georgia: Kazbegi. In this small village on the slopes of the mountain there are several places where you can stay. Kazbegi is getting more popular since last years, so I bet that the tourism has grown too since my visit.
For the Georgians this is a spiritual place and you can understand why once you’re there.
The main thing you want to do in Kazbegi is visiting the Gergeti Trinity Church, which has been built in the 14th century atop the mountain. A recipe for awesomeness. Although the church itself honestly looks a lot cooler from a distance. Nevertheless the location it the reason you’re climbing all this way: it offers some of the best views due to its isolated location while being surrounded by the vastness of nature. The inside of the church is very serene too and filled with quite some icons. And just so you know; at the door there are cloths to wrap around your head and waist. Or if you’re bloody cold.
I was so happy to visit this place. Looking back on it, all I can think of is the unparalleled solemnity of the place and the majestic Caucasian mountain range, that rival the Alps for sure. For the Georgians this is a spiritual place and you can understand why once you’re there.
You can get to the top either by foot or by car. If you’re in normal condition, I’d suggest you to do the first. You’ll appreciate the view better if you’ve worked a little for it. I’m not perse a super fit person, far from it perhaps, and it took me and my South-Korean companions that I met along the way 1,5 hour to get up, with some stops along the way too. Yes the road is steep, but if you come here in either spring or summer it’s also full of green and flowery landscapes. I wish you peaceful time at this symbol of Georgia!
