Itinerary for Costa Rica: 1, 2 and 3 weeks

So you probably landed here because you’re planning a trip to Costa Rica :)! Que bueno! No idea where to start? After two years of living in the country and having seen all of its corners, these are the spots that I’d truly recommend to you, while on a 1, 2 or 3 weeks trip.  

I always start with advising people – no matter how long they stay in here – to visit at least Corcovado or Tortuguero (two places with a high biodiversity) – just to get that pristine, lush and remote Costa Rica kind of feeling. It may take a little while to reach each of those, but once there you’ll find a lot of lovely surprises. The amount of wildlife in the areas is tremendous and so are the activities.

Whatever you do, skip capital San José. If you come from Europe you’re used to the idea that capital cities are amazing – not so much in Central America. Spend your days at the beach, on volcanoes or on mountains, that’s where the best of Costa Rica is found.

Since I’ve written dozens of articles, I’m gonna refer you to those in between, to get to know the hotspots of each place!

Western route – 1 week

If you’re up for the western part of CR, this would be my advice:

Day 1: first go the Doka Estate for a fine coffee tour near the airport. Next drive via the gardens of Zarcero to the Catarata del Toro (beautiful waterfall, have a lunch at the nearby El Silencio Lodge). Continue driving all the way to La Fortuna and stay if possible at the Arenal Observatory Lodge & Spa. 

Day 2: Go for volcano views from the hotel + hike the Cerro Chato (check whether the trail is open!) or the trail to the waterfall. Soak in the hot springs after a long outdoor day 

Day 3: Go to Monteverde for ziplining in the afternoon + eating in Treehouse Monteverde. On your way to Monteverde stop at the Cafe & Macadamia on the lake for a great cup of coffee and pie. 

Day 4: Drive to Manuel Antonio and hike the National Park in the afternoon. Did you know you can sleep in an airplane over there?

Day 5: Visit Dominical for a great brunch at Mono Congo and a bit of surfing, next drive to Uvita for a whale watching tour (if it’s the season). Here some more tips for a day of chilling out in the area.

Day 6 + 7: top it all off with a stay in Corcovado!

Perhaps you need an extra day for this entire trip to do it a bit more pura vida style, but it covers quintessential Costa Rica’s western side in my opinion. 

Eastern route – 1 week 

That said about the west coast, most tourists focus solely on that part of the country while trying to find their pipa-paradise. Such a shame, since there are many delights to be found on the eastern shores of the country too! The immaculate environment, brilliant waves and limited amount of visitors are just a few reasons that make a visit to the deeply underestimated ‘other side’ worthwhile. Indeed, you may have to be a bit more careful not showing off too much of your valuables – “no dar papaya” as they would say in Colombia -, but the Limón province (outside of Puerto Limón itself) isn’t necessarily as dangerous as people in general think.

So, if you’re up for the less traveled side I’d say after your arrival in San José:

Day 1: Go to the Poás Volcano (visit to the crater rim of a volcano, check if the park is open again up front! + a visit to Doka Estate (coffee tour). If the Poas is not open yet, you can also drive via either Catarata del Toro or La Paz waterfalls. 

Day 2: Drive to Sarapiqui for rafting + hiking + chocolate tour. If you’re into lush gardens stay inside the botanical garden of Heliconia Island or go to Mirador Prendas for a real adventure.

Day 3 +4: Go for wildlife in Tortuguero – do the canoe trip in the morning, hike the National Park in the afternoon. If it’s the season you may see turtles too in the evening, how cool is that! 

Day 5: Next in line is Cahuita – visit the wildlife rescue center Tree of Life in the morning and hike the lovely National Park in the afternoon. Eat at one of the cute restaurants in town. 

Day 6 + 7: Puerto Viejo – relax a little + go surfing + enjoy a coconut on the beach + try out those spicy Caribbean dishes. Check out where to dine in here. If you want to make your stay really special, go for a night at the Treehouse of Manzanillo.

Again, you might need an extra day to chill out a bit more between the adventures!

Two weeks

Combine the two routes above :)! 

Three weeks

Since I left out the entire left upper coast, in case you’re a beach bum I’d add some days for yourself in Nicoya or Guanacaste on top of your two weeks route near Malpaís or Tambor – for the total surfdude feeling on the west side, while you’re travelling in that region.

In case you love birding, you might want to visit San Gerardo de Dota for some quetzal spotting. Or visit the lovely Orosi / Cachí lake and surroundings (Tapantí Park) and stay at Casa Turire! Both places are very different compared to the rest of Costa Rica, and very relaxing. 

If you hop on to the east side you might consider to leave the country for a little while: go to Bocas del Toro in Panama. This gorgeous archipelago is easily reached from Puerto Viejo and is really worth a small detour! 

Tips:

What are must-pack items?

REPELLENT! Do prevent yourself from those bloodsuckers in here, they just smell it when you’re fresh from the plane. Furthermore an extra set of swimwear, since bikini’s and the like can be quite expensive in Costa Rica. Bring patience, because pura vida. An extra battery for your camera, in case you’re fond of snapping wildlife pictures. Download maps.me for hikes and waze for the drive. Also bring a strong love for Bob Marley songs and spicy dishes if you’re visiting the eastern side. Most of all: a well-filled (yet well-hidden) wallet.

What’s my favourite underrated/hidden gem?

A stay in a tree house! The idea of having a secret house high up in the canopy is simply very enchanting and attractive. Luckily, in Costa Rica there are ample opportunities to release your inner child and find your perfect fairy tale-like hideout at various exotic places, both on the Pacific and Caribbean side. 

Personally, of all the tree houses I’ve been in Costa Rica, “The Amazing Treehouse and Nature Observatorio” in Manzanillo was my favorite by far, because of its location. It’s a creative masterpiece hanging in the jungle, without harming the tree since the cabin is suspended on nylon straps that are tied around the branches. Not a single nail has been used, not a single branch cut to create the cabin.

It takes a small hike to get there, but once you climbed the rope (yes climbed, but that’s actually easier than it sounds!) you really become part of your natural surroundings. Since the cabin is so high up in the canopy, the monkeys and birds are literally swinging and singing next to you. Don’t expect a regular sleepover, but a magnificent experience.

Best outdoor activities ?

If you’re not afraid of a bit of a challenge; try the rafting on the eastern side of Costa Rica. There are several providers near the Pacuare river and in Sarapiqui and all of them offer a really cool experience. If you’re budget isn’t restricting you, opt for a stay at the Pacuare Lodge during the activity.

On the eastern side I’d also absolutely recommend an early morning canoe trip in Tortuguero (if the weather’s decent you’ll see so many creatures!), a hike in Cahuita National Park in the morning (it’s free and so easy that you can even do it on flip flops – again you’ll see lots and lots of animals) and a cycling trip from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo (take your time, the road is lovely and the sloths and monkeys are chilling out everywhere along it).

What are can’t-miss Costa Rican dishes or drinks?

Of course I need to promote the Caribbean dishes in here, from my home region. The eastern side is a melting pot of cultures, and the ‘coconut’ kitchen in here is a great reflection of it. As easygoing as the Caribbean rhythm may be, the spiciness can make you dance like a madman from time to time. So adjust your taste buds carefully to the flaming levels, as you try out the menus of the coastal towns that are filled with: rondón (spicy soup), rice ‘n beans (the Caribbean answer to gallo pinto), pattys (spicy meat pies), salsa caribeña (spicy sauce on top of a fish, chicken or beef), Jamaican jerk (a marinade used as a rub on meat), pan bon (a dry and sweet, thick bread cake) and an agua de sapo (a classical lemonade with a lot of ginger) to wash it all away. All of the dishes taste even better with a sunset view on one of the sandy coastal gems, while listening to the tropical rhythm of calypso as you watch the surfers conquer their last waves of the day.

Other advice!

In the mood to do good? Visit a rescue center, a win-win situation for both since you get to see a lot of Costa Rican animals and your money will be well spent on them. My favorite rescue center – without a doubt – is Tree of Life in Cahuita. The animals live in large cages that are situated in a gorgeous, lush botanical garden. Not only will you learn a lot about them and their stories, most likely you’ll also discover a thing or two regarding spices and fruits. And yes, they often have sloths in here too.

Another nice one if you’re into birds is The Ara Project, near Manzanillo.

If you’re a big fan of dogs (just like myself) you might want to visit Territorio de Zaguates – near San José – which is the world’s biggest dog shelter. At the time of writing they are taking care of over 1000 dogs. All the dogs that come in are being checked for diseases and parasites, next they are vaccinated and sterilised (to reduce the huge problem of stray dogs in Costa Rica in the first place), before they enter the playing fields with the other dogs. As the owner of a Costa Rican adoptee I cannot but applaud the strenuous efforts of the small staff and the volunteers of this non-profit organization. A couple of times per month they organize long walks with the dogs, where you’re able to join them. Don’t forget to bring food, snacks or toys for the doggies, they will thank you for it!