A day at Isla Grande, the star of Isla Rosario, Colombia

Hiding just a 45-minute boat ride from Cartagena’s shores, are 27 tiny coral islands located that together form the archipelago of Isla Rosario. The islands are one of Colombia’s 46 natural National Parks and well worth a visit for a couple of days off-grid. 

Isla Grande is – what’s in a name – the biggest island of them all and offers the best opportunities for a stay in the archipelago. Not only does it have a couple of ecohotels, the island itself is also big enough to provide its visitors some (natural) entertainment. Leave your troubles at home and enjoy this care-free island for as long as you can. If you’re limited in time however, it’s possible to complete all of these activities below within a day: 

Walk the island

On the island there’s only one, non-paved route. Great fun it is to follow it all the way from west to east or vice versa. A lot of the hotels offer bikes for a day, but if you’re up for it, it’s also possible to walk the island entirely. In total, this will take you some three hours, even with a couple of detours. The grand hike of Isla Grande leads you to mangroves, along a small village, flocks of birds, fields of palms, beautiful tropical sceneries and a pink lake. Last one is a bit hidden on the eastern side of the island, right across Playa Bonita. Ask a local along the road if you’re unable to find it. 

Don’t forget: bring lots of water, sun block and repellent to survive the hike in a decent way. 

Watch the bioluminescent plankton

Wait for nightfall for this next activity at the Laguna Encatada, ‘the Enchanted Lagoon’, on the eastern side of the island. Around 6pm somewhat thousands of luminescent plankton are shining bright in the waters under the moon. If you run your hand along the surface of the water, you’ll see it will be followed by a trail of luminescence; absolutely magical to behold. Unfortunately it’s very difficult to take pictures of this phenomenon; you’d better go for a swim in between the plankton to do this experience justice. 

Chill out on the beach with the piggies

Hey you, fancy a couple of lazy hours on the beach? Playa Bonita – again what’s in a name – is the island’s most prettiest white sanded beach. Chill out along the crystalline shores with a couple of dogs or piggies, who aren’t afraid either of a bit of itching sand between their furs.

Bring your swim goggles in here too; a couple of 100 meters in front of the beach there’s a nice strip of coral. Ask one of the locals where it’s about exactly. Always keep in mind that there are boats floating by too when you’re swimming towards the coral. So make yourself visible, or even better, rent a kayak or any other floating device on the beach for a couple of pesos. 

Go for a drink at Hotel Cocoliso

On the eastern end of the island there are two resorts situated, Hotel Cocoliso and Hotel Gente de Mar. These star the top end stays of the island. Hotel Cocoliso offers gorgeous views from the deck and a Wes Anderson style like swimming pool. If you don’t have the money nor the means to stay at the place, come here for the sunset. Nothing better than to enjoy the surrounding area with a cocktail in your hand in here. More in the mood for a massage? Go to the next doors Hotel Gente de Mar. Another eco-resort, with a great Bali-style outlook and some relaxing hammocks on the beach. 

Places to stay

Keep in mind that most of the hotels are very basic and therefore hipster like labeled ‘ecological’; that means no running water (but buckets), barely electricity and thus no fans or air cons. Even the fancier hotels often don’t have warm water. I honestly think that most of the hotels feature the same pros; which is none, except for a stay on a tropical island. 

Ourselves we stayed in a private cabin at Ecohotel Las Palmeras for $46,- a night at the time being. Las Palmeras is a very basic and rustic hotel, with wooden cabins at a 5 minutes walk from Playa Bonita. If you’re looking to disconnect from the world, this is a wonderful place to go to. 

Perhaps you prefer to rent your own islet in the area? Even that is possible at Isla Rosario! Check out the website of Isla Matamba, just for fun. Only for the rich & famous, although if you are with a very large group (up to 16 persons) and you’d split the costs – roughly $1300,- in high season, spending a night at Isla Matambe would actually be plausible.