WHAT: Exploring the lovely island of Hvar by foot WHERE: The island of Hvar, in front of the town of Split on the south of Croatia HOW LONG: Take a whole day for the entire expedition, the boat trip + the walk and a little stop here and then (on a terrace) on the side) HOW MUCH: Walking is free!
Fields of lavender, a dramatic coastline, a bright blue sea, vineyards and rolling hills with limestones soils; the western side of Hvar makes a pretty stroll for a day. The island is part of Dalmatia, the most visited region of Croatia and an easy day trip if you’re staying in the town of Split. If you’re in need of an escape to the country and are in the mood for a lovely hike then I surely recommend a visit to Hvar!
The main city on the island – also named Hvar – is an ancient one and has been a busy hub since ages. Romans, Byzantines, Croatian kings and the Venetians all left their marks on the island. The island for example has one of the oldest theaters of Europe. A thing you probably weren’t expecting, right?
More surprises lie ahead in the portal town. The ancient inheritance is visible and felt immediately when one leaves the boat. The harbour for example has been constructed by the Venetians centuries ago, who decided it was needed to ease the trade with the island.
The limestone cathedral of St. Stephens shines in the broad daylight on the main square, right on the base of the harbour, once we arrive. It has been built in Renaissance-style and the inside has been adorned with many Maria-paintings. The rest of the square is studded with other historic buildings; a remarkable bell tower, the Paladini palace and the Arsenal, also the host of the first public theatre in the Balkan which opened in 1612.
But of course we come for our rest in here, not so much for the culture. Quickly we make way to the hinterlands of the city. If you want to, you can basically walk the entire island all the way from Hvar in the west to the east. From either Stari Grad, Zavala and Sucuraj (on the other side) boats are departing on a regular base. But if you want to proceed on a normal speed you better opt for a walk to first stop, or the second perhaps. To reach Sucuraj you’ll need an extra day, probably.
The road towards Stari Grad is a bit hilly and with little shade, but the views are so stunning that soon enough we forget that we’re breaking some extra sweat in here. Moreover, to ease the pain it’s possible to drop in the azure waters from time to time.
During the walk we really experienced that typical Mediterranean atmosphere of ancient villages. The traditional architecture of the buildings along the road and the simple way of living have an enchanting appeal.
We continued all the way to Stari Grad and even though we did so in the midst of the day during July, we managed quite well. Do take note, it’s more than a stroll – it took us some 3,5 hours to do the entire 18 km track from Hvar. Therefore, just to make it a little bit more comfortable, I would recommend the earlier hours for this hike for sure!
