For some kind of reason it was very difficult to find out how to get into Guatemala from the south side of Belize. I even met some folks that just decided to skip Livingston altogether and to travel to the west of Belize (from San Ignacio into Guatemala, Flores) because of that. It was like every book and every hostel was telling something else.
However, now that I went there (November 2018), I know it all! So let me tell you how crossed the border in this tiny article. And a spoiler: it was way easier and safer than I expected it to be.
Obviously, firstly you need to get to Punta Gorda in the south of Belize. Many southbound buses on the Belizean highway (yes, there’s only one way to the south) hit either Placencia or Punta Gorda. In general they have a sign in the front of the bus, but before you enter, just ask the driver where he’s going. You never know…
I left by bus from Hopkins and it only took me something like two hours to get to Punta Gorda. The ride itself was fairly beautiful. With the mountains on the right side and life in little villages on the left, I had quite some entertaining things to observe.
As the road ends in Punta Gorda, the only way to get to Livingston is via water. The bus driver will drop you off in front of the migration office (if he’s kind) . Over there you’ll see this sign ↓
At the time of my visit I was able to take the boat twice per day. At 09:30 am and 2 pm – every day! You see the schedule in reverse as well in case you want to travel from Livingston to Punta Gorda.
And this is the immigration office itself ↓
To buy the tickets for the boat you have to walk to this next door shack ↓. I paid $60,- BZN ($30,- USD) for my ticket and even though it’s supposed to be cheaper I believe this is the general price for gringo’s.
I arrived around 10:30 in Punta Gorda and had over 3 hours to kill. Luckily, by day Punta Gorda didn’t seem that bad. I mean, I wouldn’t want to stay there for a full day nor night, but for a couple of hours it was quite pleasant to be stuck in here.
Close to the port I found this surprisingly informative Belizean tourist center ↓. Slightly ironic at the time of departure, but I decided to give it a go.
The lady inside directed me to this nearby outside plastic chair, paper napkin kind of joint “for the best and cheapest lunch in town”. And indeed, for some $4,- USD I got a full plate of rice ‘n beans, salad and a grilled fish. Ánd a jamaica drink (a pink drink made from the hibiscus flower).
Not bad at all.
Sitting there on the sidewalk was quite entertaining as well, as many vendors were passing by trying to sell their goodies.
In the corner of my eye I also saw this guy reading a book and having a smoke a little further down the street. He reminded me of my student days. Cat (his name, an acronym of his (sur)names – everyone in Belize seems to have a nickname anyway) was reading about the British royal navy and how the Caribbean was conquered (“they’re still doing the same these days, but now with planes”).
I asked if I could also make a close up shot, but he said I’d to come back for that in 25 years (he’d be 95, the age he’s aiming for). He’d look much cooler by then ??.
I hope I’ll make it as well.
After this early lunch I walked around town. The boulevard was quite nice and I had the feeling I was the only ‘gringo’ and that pleased me immensely.
It was closed at the time of my visit, but this Cotton Tree chocolate center looked like fun too 🙂
Time for that boat ride! You’re able to enter immigration office exactly half an hour in advance. The border crossing is pretty relaxed. My bags weren’t checked and the rasta guy behind the counter thought my second name (Désirée) was very funny (“Desire.. on fire”).
Don’t forget to save $40,- BZN though, this payment is required as ‘exit tax’.
The boat ride went super smooth and after 40 minutes we landed in Livingston. The immigration office is a couple of minutes away from the port (uphill..), but you’ll be directed to it by the people from the boat. Or take a look in here ↓ and good luck!
kaye
December 4, 2019 at 2:20 pm
thanks for sharing
Kristel
December 20, 2019 at 5:50 am
Hope everything went smooth! Best, Kristel from TTT
Lulu
December 19, 2019 at 3:52 pm
Great info thanks for sharing. Love the lunch tip, I’ll for sure check that out ??
Kristel
December 20, 2019 at 5:49 am
You’re very welcome! Good luck! Cheers, Kristel from TTT
saul
June 20, 2020 at 11:26 am
Thanks for sharing! It doesn´t seem like this is an option, but do you know if there are ferrys or water taxis to cross over with a motorcycle?
Kristel
June 24, 2020 at 3:57 am
Hi Saul, cool idea to travel like that. But no, I’m sorry, I have no clue indeed! I mean, I would think it would be possible to approach someone with the idea, but of course no guarantees.. I haven’t seen ferries, only these smaller boats. Anyway, I sincerely hope your trip works out. Also, you have to think as well of how you want to get out of Livingston! Not sure if that’s connected with the hinterland. Puerto Barrios (other side of the river) however would be possible. Best of luck to you!
charlotte
December 9, 2022 at 2:29 pm
Hey. Thanks for sharing. How was the way back from Livingston to Punta gorda? As easy as the way in ? Were they still giving rides on holidays ( like january 1st)?
Thanks a lot