In for an epic road trip? Even though quite populated, the west coast of the USA serves up so many lovely spots for solitude-seekers that you’ll keep on being surprised. Promised. Especially around the north of California, in Redwoods National Park. Most people won’t go further north than San Francisco when they make their way through the state, but you really shouldn’t leave out this wild chunk in the northern part of the state. Only if you like less-trodden territory of course!
Redwoods NP is chock-full of gorgeous vistas, tranquil beach sides, hikes along mossy canyons and scenic drives. Sounds pretty good right? Confusingly enough the NP encompasses three areas: Jedediah Smith Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Parks. All in which you can find the tallest tree on earth, named… redwoods!
The park includes champion specimens that reach over 370 feet / 113 m. in height. Why do they grow so tall? Nobody really knows, although rumour has it that the trees are highly resistant to diseases due to a thick protective bark. They can grow as old as 2000 years. Impressive right?
This ancient history tickles the mind. It’s easy to envision dinosaurs rumbling through these thick forests. You wouldn’t be the only one picturing them in your head. Steven Spielberg did so too and made his thoughts even sorta real, as parts of Jurrassic Park were filmed here.
It’s great navigating the many miles of the winding highway 101 up through these forests. But don’t be afraid that it’s all driving. A lot of backcountry adventures are waiting too in here for the outdoorsy folks.
The spots below were my favourite detour worthy diversions – aligned from north to south. Consider stopping in here too if you’re looking for that enchanted forest feeling! Or if you want to imagine a velociraptor or dilophosaurus pouncing on you from the bushes!
Howland Hill Road
I heard someone talking about the Avenue of the Giants and that seems a proper nickname for the drive, as we’re looking at the definition of ‘untouched forest’ in here. Brace yourself for dreamlike settings during this 10 miles / 16 km scenic drive. This unpaved road in the north through Jedidiah Smith State Park is a marvellous introduction of Redwoods.
Although it must be said that some giants in the Redwoods sadly have been cut down in recent history. “Redwoods are a very good timber, and all the way back until almost the 1980s they were harvested. Ninety-five percent were turned into homes and railway ties all across the world.” according to the NP. So appreciate that five percent, don’t leave a trace and learn about local conservation efforts while you’re there.
As you’ll encounter few other people it’s a cosy experience too. Drive slowly though, as the road is a bit rough, narrow and dusty.
Car for scale. ↓ And this wasn’t even the biggest tree we encountered in here.
Mill Creek Campground
If you plan to show up in summertime without reservations you might have a problem finding a place to sleep. The NP provides a lot of backcountry permits. We decided ourselves to stay at Mill Creek Campground.
This place was absolutely gorgeous, perhaps one of the most beautiful campgrounds we’ve seen in the States, or in the world. It’s located in a canyon-like valley and most of the campsites are somewhat nestled up between the large and towering trees or at the base of giant roots. The trees are in fact so dense in here, that when it rains you might not even notice it. In the morning fog there remains an air of mystery in here.
Another great thing about this campground is that you can access the Damnation Creek Trail from here at milepost 16. The trail is 2.5 miles / 4 km one way down to the beach with a slight level of elevation.
So I’d suggest you to book a spot in here and fall asleep to the aroma of the sitka spruces, cedar and redwoods. Or to stoke a campfire as sparks mingle with the tapestry of stars overhead. ↓
Potion anyone?
Klamath River Overlook
A park ranger recommended us this overlook. A short but steep drive leads you from the 101 to this lovely spot via the Requa Road. It’s absolutely worth a little detour as you can see below. If you’re lucky you might even spot some seals, spouting gray whales or killer whales in the distance.
Also, if you’re running low on vitamin c in summer, this is the place to go and snack some blackberries!
Klamath Beach Road / Coastal Drive
O yes, this is another scenic gorgeous drive you shouldn’t miss out on for sure! The most spectacular stop on this loop south of Klamath is the High Bluff Overlook (second picture ↓). Again you can see the big beauties from the sea in here if you’re lucky. It’s a tiny parking lot and overview, but it has vault toilets and picnic tables too in case you need a break.
The rest of the loop is lovely too. Right after the overlook, you will pass a WWII radar station (first picture ↓). You’ll barely notice it as it’s disguised as a simple house perched on the edge of the bluff. It was meant to detect Japanese submarines. These days it’s overgrown with blackberry bushes.
Also, at the end of the coastal drive you can see where the Klamath River empties into the Pacific. This is a good spot for fishing enthusiasts.
This is a one-way drive by the way! We figured that out a little too late, but anyway, you have to drive it against the clock.
Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway
Sorry I can’t resist, but I need to post another scenic driveway in here. The Newtown B. Drury Parkway runs parallel to the Highway 101 for 10 miles / 16 km and is it’s lush alternative. Don’t miss out on it! The drive takes you through the old-growth redwood forest of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
You can find several nice trailheads from here if you need to stretch the legs in between. If you have little time, at least make it to the Big Tree! From the parking lot you need to hike north 250 ft / 76 m on Foothill Trail to see it. No worries, it’s big. You can’t miss it. And so you know, it’s also difficult to picture it, as it’s soooo huge :).
At the time of our visit there was a cougar spotted in this area! How insane if you encounter one of those. The most exciting thing we saw on the other hand, were these yellow / black snails.. ↓
Prairie Creek
At the end of the Newton B. Drury parkway you’ll end up in Prairie Creek. Be sure to keep an eye out for the wild elk herds that roam the area in here!
Gold Bluffs Beach
This beach should be named Golden Fluff Beach, as the sand on this rough strip along the Pacific is just super soft. I’d say this beach is particularly scenic because of both its backdrops (the giant redwoods on the cliff) and its sunsets. Again, you might be able to see a whale or two in here.
If you like to stay here a little longer and love the sound of waves lullabying you to sleep, you should reserve a spot of Gold Bluffs Beach Campground.
Fern Canyon
Fern Canyon is perhaps the most magical spot of the entire region. The vertical walls in this small canyon – located close to Gold Bluffs Beach – sprout five types of ferns and other moisture-loving plants and mosses. It’s fifty shades of green in here and you really have the feeling that you’re walking in a Jurassic Park scene in here.
One can hike into the canyon and back or continue at the end of the canyon onto a stairway that climbs out of the canyon. This trail leads you back to the beginning of the canyon, with some fine overlooks of the fern walls.
Be on the look-out for frogs, as we saw many tiny ones of them in here!
Bald Hills Road
The last scenic drive of the list in the south of the area! Brace yourself for green and golden hills that are covered with wildflowers in summer. ↓
This place is especially nice for a visit when you’re experiencing a foggy day – unfortunately always a possibility on the west coast.
As you’re so high up in here, you can look down upon the sea of mist below. Also, there are several viewpoints in here that give you a decent overview of the rolling hills beyond Redwoods.
It’s a bit difficult to say how far you should drive. We stopped at the highest point in the area: the Schoolhouse peak fire lookout. Although the gate is locked, you can enter the area by foot.
That’s all folks! And one last tip, before you visit Redwoods, make sure to stop at the Prairie Creek Redwoods Visitor Center to hear about the latest conditions of the scenic drives in the area!
Here’s where you can find all of the scenic drives, stops and overlooks!
