“I want to ride my bicycle, I want to ride it where I like”. If the road from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo had a slogan, this would’ve been it. The road is just meant for the bike, and cars basically come second along this track.
With a lot of stuff to explore; top lunch spots, secluded beaches, a rescue center and tons of wildlife along the way, this activity makes for a very fine day trip and awesome pura vida experience.
Just rent a bike in town ($7,- per day, but it depends on the shop (there are many) and your bargaining skills) and make it all the way to the south and back. It’s a 13 km drive (one way), which isn’t that much on a bicycle. But how long it will take you depends on the many breaks you take in between, so that’s difficult to say. Although as a Dutchie I’m not a big fan of it, you can even rent e-bikes in town at Terraventuras or Monkey Rental, if that’ll easy up the ride.
Whatever you do, I do recommend you to start early. Not only are the animals the most active by then, it’ll save you some back sweat too!
Coffee at Bread & Chocolate / Cafe Rico / Como en mi Casa / Dreadnut / De Gustibus Bakery
If you want to start your day in a lovely way (read ‘with lots of coffee’), then go to one of these spots. Check out the list of lunch spots; first part of the article). I don’t know which one to pick for you, they are all pretty splendid.
Shops in Puerto Viejo: Luluberlu Art Gallery and Luna May
Start with some souvenir hunting (or end the day with it) in Puerto Viejo. For authentic and local made dresses go to Luna May. They also have some smashing pieces of natural jewellery. Think giant rings and necklaces made of shells.
For the better home decoration pieces, make a stop at Luluberlu Art Gallery. This is a worthwhile place just for browsing, as the shop is fabulous. Many mosaics brighten up the place and though the paintings are expensive; you might just find your gorgeous piece for above the dinner table. Seriously, visit this gallery.
PURE Jungle Spa
I’ve never been there myself, but rumour has it that if you’re in dire need of a massage apparently this place is the best of all in Puerto Viejo. It’s said they have amazing cacao treatments, which they spread onto your skin (try to resist that, you smelly chocolate bomb!). Unfortunately there comes a price tag along with it, but hey, you’re having a holiday!
Playa Cocles
The list would not be complete without mentioning this fine, popular spot in Puerto Viejo. This beach is just purely nice and always a good place to start or end your day. Large, white sand, big waves with many people and dogs to stare at. If you’re hungry, the rasta vendor is never far away. Neither is a masseur, who will knead your back as you listen to the buzz of the beach.
Since the waves vary in toughness, Playa Cocles also serves everyone interested in surfing. Ask the lifeguard which area would be suitable for your level and take his advice serious. If you lack the skills, don’t worry: just staring at the swells will stimulate your mind and mood as well.
Playa Chiquita
A very cute beach, just a couple of minutes away from Cocles. Though small, Chiquita is the place to find your own, private area. It’s not easy parking your car here and that’s why usually there aren’t that many people around. In front of the supermarket you’ll find some ways to enter with your bicycle.
Look at that happy dog:
This level of happiness you’ll reach at Playa Chiquita. Or any beach around town probably.
Casa Mandala
Next stop should be Casa Mandala. Another lovely place to buy some locally made souvenirs! Lamps, paintings, woodwork; you can find a lot in here!
Next to it is an ice shop. Although it’s often closed an ice creams are expensive ($5,- a piece), they are home made and pretty good.
Punta Uva
Another couple of kilometers southwards is Punta Uva, sandwiched between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo. A small, elevated and lush cliff divides the beach. This area serves as a viewpoint as well, if you dare to climb it. Over here you also find a beautiful, hidden, arched rock formation, carved out by the water, as you can see below.
Some come to the beach for scuba diving or snorkelling, which is rather easy over here: you simply walk into the water until you reach the coral. For the rest of us, the water here is bright, the sand very fluffy and the palm trees will provide you enough shade for the hottest parts of the day.
Don’t mind the monkey families swinging above your head.
El Refugio Grill
El Refugio is past Punta Uva on the main road, while heading towards Manzanillo. The place offers a great romantic dinner in the jungle with a private atmosphere. The Argentinian chef and owner is friendly and truly cares about your experience.
Everyday there are only a few dishes on the menu. Personally I always like it when the menu is small – and the cook for sure knows how to grill his dishes to perfection. If you want to hear some howler monkeys; they’re often in the area around sunset. And since a while the place now serves lovely comfort food type of lunches too!
The Ara Project or Jaguar Rescue Center
It’s good to do some activities with a conscience from time to time while travelling around. In Costa Rica there are lots of opportunities for that; wildlife rescue centers and sanctuaries are found all around the country. The Ara Project is one of them and is situated near Manzanillo, on a small and rustic perch high on a hill next to the jungle.
After you’ve past El Refugio you need to go a little further until you spot a sign. From the main road it’s a small drive through the jungle before you get to the project. Though this may be a bit of an offroad part, the instant reward of it comes flying right at you as soon as you enter the project area: the magnificent macaws. The Ara Project gives a tour once a day at 4 pm. Make sure to make a reservation in advance! Check out this article for more information about the project!
The Jaguar Rescue Center is even nearer to Puerto Viejo, you’ve passed this one already by this point (near Casa Mandala). Over here you’ll find many native species and often rare mammals too. They give a tour twice a day, so check in advance when to go!
“The amazing treehouse and Nature Observatorio” – Manzanillo / Puerto Viejo
The town of Manzanillo on the far south of the Caribbean coast counts some 300 people, a handful of tourists, inestimable palm trees and since a couple of years a wonderful treehouse! It has been designed and built by Peter Garcar, a structural engineer by profession and Slovak from origin.
His creative masterpiece is hanging in the jungle just outside of town. Literally, since the cabin is suspended on nylon straps that are tied around the branches, without harming the tree. Not a single nail has been used, not a single branch cut to create the cabin. All has been put together piece by piece in place in the air, like Lego blocks.
Peter aims that his guests become a part of nature during their stay, without leaving any traces. The hike towards the cabin is already a start of this connection, and so is the climb up. Personally, of all the tree houses I’ve seen in Costa Rica, this one was by far my favourite, because of its location. Don’t expect a regular sleepover, but a magnificent experience.
If you only want to visit, that’s possible too during the day! Sleeping in the treehouse goes from $170,- per person per night. This is the VP-stay which includes food, but you kind of need a bit of pampering, since you are situated in the middle of nowhere. Click here to read more about a visit to the treehouse!
Playa Manzanillo
Moving on. From the treehouse it’s only a small last drive to Manzanillo. Dipped in an upbeat Afro-Caribbean rhythm, this laid back and pristine town has a pleasantly sleepy feeling. The sceneries of the village throw you back in time.
Life here is revolved around the coast, whether you go to the many small beaches from the Gandoca Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge, or the big beach next to the road. In the weekends the villagers chill out over here along their barbecues, and it is a great pleasure to be surrounded by them as you watch the rasta coloured fishermen boats finding their way back home.
Refugio Manzanillo
All the way at the end of the road you’ll find the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca Manzanillo. A mouth full and an absolute picture perfect. Surrounded by tiny beaches, golden sand, pristine jungle, turquoise tides, palm trees and chirping birds, it doesn’t get much better.
Remote and exotic, this park is sandwiched between sea and the jungle, making it an extraordinary place for a hike. It runs all the way to the Sixaola River at the Panamanian border. And it starts in Manzanillo.
Want to know about exploring the area, check it out in here!
Enjoy your biiiicycle.. biiiiicycle!!
In the mood for more pictures of Puerto Viejo? Go over here!
