The adorable old town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay

The long shadows of autumn were clearly visible at the time of our visit in June in the cutest town of Uruguay: Colonia del Sacramento. This small city along the Río de la Plata not only has a pretty outlook (certainly in June), it’s also the oldest one in Uruguay. But its peaceful ambiance is deceiving as it was once a smuggling port.

The Portuguese founded Colonia del Sacramento in 1680 as a fortress city across the bay of Buenos Aires. It was close to it, but located just far enough to make it a perfect smuggling spot, with a bay deep enough for ships. Up to Uruguay’s independence in 1828, Spain, Portugal and Britain all were struggling to gain the power over Colonia’s harbour. (To be continued below)

Faro de Colonia del Sacramento

Paseo de San Gabriel

Plaza Mayor as seen from Real

If you’re staying in Buenos Aires, Colonia makes for an awesome day trip. It only takes 75 minutes to reach Uruguay by ferry. Ferries leave several times a day from Puerto Madero. Buquebus, Colonia Express and Seacat Colonia all go there and their prices can vary a great deal (even per day. Especially in high season). The later you book, the higher your ticket will be, as I experienced myself too unfortunately.

Services aboard are basically the same – and sometimes even the boat itself is -, so just go for the cheapest option you can find online.

Calle de Santa Rita

Basilica de Santísimo Sacaremento

View from the lighthouse

Since 1995, Colonia has been listed as a UNESCO World Culture Heritage Site. And its Barrio Historico is worth strolling for hours:

Climb the stairs of the El Faro lighthouse and try to find the skyline of Buenos Aires across the bay, raise your sugar levels with some scones during tea time and gaze in the meantime at the river at Queriéndote Casa de Té y Bistró or Augusto Tea House, find that perfect mate cup and bombilla for yourself or your Uruguayan/Argentinian friend at the street of Gral Flores, take a rest at the pier of Muelle del Puerto Yates and watch the sailing boats drop by, stroll around the cobbled street like La Calle de Los Suspiros (‘street of sighs’), follow the old town walls that wrap up this historic neighbourhood, drop by the oldest church of Uruguay’s that is Iglesia Matriz, eat one of those massives chivito’s, shops some grappa miel or handmade clothing, visit one of the tiny museums such as the Museo de Azulejos, try to capture the mirrored views of the brick build arches in the garden of the Centro Cultural Bastion Del Carmen as best as you can, and of course, enjoy a mate with the locals along the río!