From a young age onwards, I’ve always had a weakness for buildings in decay; ruins in other words. A bit peculiar perhaps, but I know I don’t stand alone on this one, since the Germans have invented a word for the delightful feeling one gets while seeing ruins: “ruinenlust”. Indeed, lust for ruins. For some melancholic reason we are able to put the present into perspective once we behold collapsed temples, churches, castles or theatres. It reminds us of the idea that all things will pass, even great ones.
Surprised I was therefore when I first entered the area of Casco Viejo in Panama City. Normally, the oldest part of the city is presented as its showpiece. But not in this case.
Mark – one of the workers of the lovely downtown cafetaria SuperGourmet – told me during a walk that this old part has seen some horrible things up until ten years ago. Local gangs would rival one another, no one ever felt really safe and the buildings were left to rot. Most people would even avoid the area in its totality.
However, since UNESCO enlisted the Casco Viejo – or Casco Antiguo as the locals put it – in its rank, the once considered lost area saw its revival. Locals and foreign suddenly were able again to believe in the potential of the neighbourhood. One by one the owners of the old houses were being sold out by companies and hotels the last couple of years.
One can really feel the transition while walking through the streets. Ten more years and this area will be totally different from what it is today; you don’t need to be a fortune teller to see that. All of this development is great in a sense, but a shame for those with ‘ruinenlust’.
Gotten curious? If you plan a trip to the barrio and would like to build in some stops during your walk don’t forget to have a sandwich or juice at SuperGourmet (Avenida A x Calle 6 Oeste), an Italian shot of espresso at Caffe per Due (Avenida A x Avenida Central), an ice cream at Ay Mi Negra (Avenida B x Calle 7) or – if the line is too long at the former- a popsicle at the nearby La Michoacana (Avenida B x Calle 8). For dinner sit down to table at the lush restaurant of Nueve Panama (Calle Jose B. de la Obaldía) and for a lovely drink with an even lovelier view climb the stairs to from Rooftop Gatto Blanco (Avenida B) or Capital Bistro Panama (Avenida Eloy Alfado).
That’ll do the trick for a day in the peculiar area of Casco Viejo.
