WHAT: Visiting the weird, abandoned, symbolic communist Bulgarian HQ - named Buzludzha WHERE: In the middle of Bulgaria. The place is best reached from Veliko Tarnovo (2 hours each way by car). Many ho(s)tels offers tours. HOW LONG: For exploring the area (also the inside of the monument) you need at least an hour. If you'd like to do some hiking you can easily add a couple more.
The first acquaintance with the Soviet monument of Buzludzha is an overwhelming one. After a long drive all the way from Veliko Turnovo – through the mountainous spine of Bulgaria- suddenly an enormous UFO appears on a hill. A haunting image. Around it nothing but wild horses and spectacular panoramic views on the Stara Planina, without any sign of life as far as the eye can see.
While getting out of the car it felt like I stepped into a James Bond scene, or some weird sci-fi movie- one that brought communism to Bulgaria from outer space.
A burning flame on the foot of the hill is there to remind us visitors of the ‘warm’ relationship between Soviet Russia and Bulgaria in the past. One of the flame bends a little towards the ‘superior’ other one. You may guess which one of the two countries was considered the most important.
So, why is this Soviet gift built over here? Apparently the peak on which Buzludzha is situated has a lot of historic value. Not only was this the site of a battle between the Bulgarians and the Turks in 1868 (in which the Turks were defeated and expelled from Europe after 500 years of Ottoman rule), it has also been the place where a group of socialists lead by Dimitar Blagoev met to plan for Bulgaria’s socialist future in 1891. To remember all of these events, the government in power decided to erect a monument during the height of Soviet influence commemorating socialist communism.
Now if you think the outside of the UFO looks weird, take a deep breath before you explore the inside. Over there awaits the real decaying treasure: beautiful Soviet mosaics, partially smashed into pieces. But even like this you can see the glory of the past. Over 60 Bulgarian artists collaborated on the design of murals for the site and thousands of volunteers were involved in the construction of them.
The concrete structure on the other hand still stands tall against the elements, adorned with socialist slogans. After the government’s fall from power in 1989, the site was abandoned and left open to vandalism. The main entrance has been sealed ever since and is therefore closed to public. However, there is still a way to climb into the building on the right side. Yet since you have to hoist yourself through there, and bend yourself through the bowels of the building, it’s probably only destined for the brave ones.
Due to the severe damage, the building looks much older than its 37 years. Large mosaic images of Lenin and Marx (and a third Bulgarian one?) look over the main arena. This space was meant for state functions and celebrations. Next to the UFO on the outside a red star-shaped window shines in a slender tower, of course in honour of Soviet Russia. Funny enough the star even was three times larger than the one at the Kremlin. Communist rumour had it, you could see the star all the way in Rumania and Greece. Shining bright like a diamond.
Unfortunately, currently there are no plans to renovate the building. A bit of a shame, because it’ll be only a matter of time before the mosaics are gone entirely. But because it’s so eerie, it’s unlike anywhere else I have ever been and very much worth the long trip. It was for sure my highlight in Bulgaria. So go there – if you enjoy surreal and historically significant places – before it’s too late!
Here’s where to find that weird monument! ↓
