WHAT: A stay in a royal gem, the Buçaco or Bussaco Palace WHERE: Located in the mountain range of Serra do Buçaco, in the municipality of Mealhada, in central Portugal. HOW LONG: One night is enough to feel the atmosphere of the forest and the palace HOW MUCH: Rooms from €100,- per night
Treat yourself like a king and queen ánd stay on a budget! Yes, that’s possible in the middle of Portugal, in a national park between the big cities of Coimbra and Porto, at the Buçaco Palace Hotel. A true gem!
The place once was the hunting palace of King Charles I of Portugal, who commissioned the building of the palace in 1888 in the midst of a forest and on the grounds of a former convent. Centuries before that, the 250 acres of woodland surrounding the castle was already planted by Carmelite monks. And that foresting paid of, since the land around the palace are absolutely wonderful.
We weren’t planning on staying in the area, but simply drove by when we came from Coimbra. While we spotted the over-the-top magical castle, we decided to drive all the way up, just to check it out. Once at the reception we discovered that a stay in here doesn’t even necessarily break the bank. For €100,- per room per night you can stay in an actual palace – how cool is that!
The exterior of the building has an eclectic outlook, with many marine architectural details, sculptures and a huge display of the famous blue and white Portuguese tilework. It has the style and grandeur of one of the old European hotels. It’s hard to believe how this place has survived intact into the 21st century, atmosphere included. Red carpets cover every corridor and the soft light in the evening wouldn’t misfit a Wes Anderson movie scene. Be aware though; occasionally you’ll be creeped out by a mediaval armour.
I do realise however that this place as a hotel may not to be to everyone’s taste. Since the building is old, the wear and tear is obvious at some places. Add to that that if you’re used to brand new, spacious and modern hotels, this may not be your fit either. A lot of the furniture and decoration after all is from previous centuries. For me that’s the charm, for some it might be not the standard they’re expecting. So just be aware that it’s not the Hilton you’re visiting.
That said, it’s also possible just to come here and enjoy the lunch or one of the wines produced by the hotel. Yep, indeed, they produce their own wine in here too. All the food that we had at the hotel was very satisfying and the staff was helpful too. Mornings start with champagne here too, so what’s there to complain.
If you want to relax, Buçaco is a stone’s throw to some of the best spas in the country, being located near the Luso springs. But perhaps a stroll in the gardens and the forests around the palace will do. Ask for a map at the reception and walk the paths that have been used for hundreds and hundreds of years. Again to some the weed growing out of the fountains may point out that the place is neglected, for me it simply addresses that you’re walking straight through a Portuguese fairy tale.
