What to do: 4 days in Bocas del Toro, Panama

I’ve been in Bocas several times, on several islands, and every time I got off the boat at Isla Colón I felt like stepping into a ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’-like paradise, with always something new to discover. Whether you like snorkeling, deserted beaches, diving, starfishes, sailing, coconuts, wildlife, exquisite food, party places, ultimate quietness; Bocas has some for everyone. Except perhaps if you hate sunshine. 

Are you not sure yet of how many days you want to go to the archipelago of Bocas del Toro? I recommend at least 4 days, if you can spare the days. If not, pick a couple of components of my top 4 days in the area that suit you best!

Click here for some more drop dead gorgeous Bocas del Toro pictures!

DAY ONE:

• Rent a bicycle and go to the other side of the island

From Bocas Town there are a couple of places on the main road where you can rent a bicycle for a day or two. Very easy to rent for a day trip if you come straight from the boat. Typically, a bike will cost you about $15,- a day, but perhaps you have some decent bargaining skills that will save you a couple of dollars.

It’s a 1,5 hours ride towards the northern end of the island. The area is very lush and hilly, so it’s not an easy, but for sure a beautiful one. In case you need a break during the trip: on the road you’ll encounter a botanical garden, a Plastic Bottle Village, a waterfall on the right side (a small hike from the road), probably some howler or white face monkeys, sloths, lots of heliconia flowers, beautiful views on the island and perhaps a friendly dog that wants to join you the entire road (we were lucky enough to have one!). At the end of the road you’ve reached the next hotspot:

• Boca del Drago / Starbeach

There you go: a sea full of starfishes! It takes about fifteen minutes to walk to this spot from the main road along the beach. You better leave your bicycle at the beginning; it’s difficult to walk in this area due to the loose sand. Once at Boca del Drago – if you see the sign below, you know you’ve reached the place -, crab your swim goggles and plunge into the water. Don’t touch the starfishes, they’re living creatures (no shit) and don’t like to be moved! They die if you hold them for a long time out of the water. But don’t worry, looking at them is already quite pleasant too. Next to the beach there are a couple of places where you can get a drink and a rest in a hammock, before you aim to return to Bocas Town. 

• Playa Bluff and the lagoon

On the other side of the island awaits another paradise: Playa Bluff. This beach has miles of undeveloped, magical, caramel coloured beachfront and you only have to share it with very few people, if at all. It’s your picture postcard setting when you think of the Caribbean. Waves are unfortunately too crazy for a swim. 

If you’re in a sporty mood, you can go here all the way from Boca del Drago. It will take you another 1,5 hours to get to Playa Bluff. In case you’re out of breathe, there’s the possibility as well to take a cab or bus from the beach. Don’t worry about your bicycle; they can be put either in the back of the taxi (usually 4WD’s) or on top of the bus. The bus can take you to the bifurcation (next to Hotel La Rumba), whereafter it’s another hour by bicycle. Cabs can even take you straight to Bluff.

One hour north of Playa Bluff you can find a very beautiful lagoon. Again, no people in here, yet lots of fishes. It’s a sweet place to hang out a couple of hours; read a book on the side of the lagoon under a tree (watch the coconuts!) and see some underwater wildlife in between.

My recommendation in this area for you would be to stay at the Playa Bluff Lodge or the Turtle Beach Lodge and have dinner at The Hummingbird. You won’t regret any of those choices, promised!

DAY TWO: ISLA CARENERO

• Go on a day tour by (sailing) boat

No matter how long you’re gonna be at Bocas del Toro, it’s always a good idea to go on a tour by (sailing) boat. That way you’ll see a couple of islands and spots within a short time. In the Bocas Town there are a lot of tour operators, so you can basically chose what particular sides you’d like to go, based on what other places you’re about to visit. Tours costs something between $25,- and $40,-, depending on the amount of places and remoteness. Usually you’ll be back in town (or another island drop off if you ask for it) around 3pm. Most of the tours leave at 10pm. Inform about the possibilities the day before you’d like to go on a tour. 

• Stay at Faro del Colibri

The first time I arrived at Bocas del Toro I already spotted these little, yellow bungalows on the water. The next time I booked a stay in here and there was absolutely no regret with that decision. The bungalows have their own pier, where a watertaxi can drop you off for $1,- (from Isla Colon). From the deck of each bungalow you can enjoy a splendid sunset.

When the sun sets in, the shining lamps from underneath the houses light up the water; just sit down with a beer or wine and stare at all of the fishies swimming by. We were able to see a ray, puffer fish, schools of fish and a couple of starfishes, even without hitting the water. Next day first thing to do to wake up is jumping from your perch into the sea and go snorkeling for a little while. Starting your day as such – how fun is that!

• Eat at Bibi’s on the beach

From Faro del Colibri it’s a 5-minute walk to this lovely spot, that’s just like the hotel constructed on stilts in the water. Bibi’s has excellent views all around, especially during the evening, when you see how the stingrays – on a safe distance – are nomming the last pieces of lobster away beneath the restaurant. With soft seafood dishes, a romantic atmosphere and reasonable prices this is a fine choice to go to on Isla Carenero. The piña coladas are absolutely superb in here too by the way – just saying!

DAY THREE: ISLA BASTIMENTOS

• Red frog beach

This is your ultimate chill day. From the main island it’ll cost you $5,- to go by watertaxi to this part of Bastimentos. You’ll be dropped off at the pier, whereafter you have to walk 10 minutes before you get to this beach. It’s your ultimate getaway, with no cars or boats nearby. 

• Palmar Beach Lodge

Right behind the Red Frog Beach lies Palmar Beach Lodge. This eco hotel offers everything you need to have a relaxing stay after your day at the beach. It has beautiful and big tent-like eco accommodations tucked away in the jungle, delicious and fresh food (think fish and coconut rice), daily activities (there’s even a yoga pavilion) and is perfectly located. If you don’t like the idea of tents; don’t worry, it’s more like a glamping kind of style. A fine stay for a -breakaway from it all- day

DAY FOUR: ISLA SOLARTE

• Have lunch at the Blue Coconut

A fun place to have some drinks or eat a snack, in the middle of nowhere. From either Bastimentos or the main island it’s a quick watertaxi ride towards this place (some $5,- p.p.). There are all kinds of things to do around the spot: snorkel around the restaurant with the (provided or brought) gear, lay out on the dock, chill in a water hammock. Oh and not to forget: it also has some fine comfort kind of food and great drinks. All in all it’s for sure nice to spend a couple hours in here. Beware it is only open from 12-6pm. 

• Stay at the Bambuda Lodge

Overlooking a private bay with coral reef, the Bambuda Lodge has some incredible views of the ocean and mountainous spine of mainland Panama. Plus, in here you can really enjoy a sunset that is hard to describe. Bambuda Lodge is a eat, sleep, chill, repeat place, with an awesome vibe and a very helpful and friendly staff that will try to make you feel welcome on this little slice of paradise. 

Though Bambuda Lodge is a bit remote there’s a lot you can do in here: snorkeling around the corals in front of the property, kayaking, SUPping, hiking the jungle, chill at the pool, go down the waterslide (that goes into the sea!), swim at night with bioluminescent plankton, have a drink, eat some delicious food or just meet a lot of cool people. 

Bambuda Lodge is off-grid, meaning that the electricity comes from the sun and the water is caught and filtered rain-water. Dorm from $16,- per night, private room from $40,- per night. A ride from the main island by boat will costs you from $3,- to $5,-. 

That’s it, enjoy your stay and if you need some extra tips let me know!

Here’s where to find those gems!