Beirut singer Zach Condon once wrote a song about his home town and even though I had no idea of what to expect from Santa Fe, because of that track I knew beforehand it couldn’t be but an enchanting town. Indeed it felt like there was a lot of magic in the air over there during our visit this month. Accompanied by an Indian Summer and a lot of happy faces due to the nearby Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, I can not but recommend anyone who want to plan a visit to go in this time of year.
Established in 1610, Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in the USA. Because of that it has a rich cultural past; blending Hispanic, Native American and Anglo influences altogether in this little and cute town. Set in the southern tip of the Rocky Mountains, it’s also a nice place to visit if you’re considering some outdoor time, but I’ll save that for another article. For now some tips and pictures of downtown Santa Fe itself!
All of the cultural influences (and the liberal mindset that comes along with it) are particularly visible when it comes to the shape and outlook of the town. It’s one of those few centers in the States that resembles an old European town, with a set up that doesn’t make sense. A couple of streets are lined up parallel, but the majority isn’t. For a city of only 85000 inhabitants, there’s a enormous community present that focuses on visual and performing arts. And lucky for visitors; a lot of the artsy stuff is visible in public spaces.
If you’re eager to explore this side of Santa Fe, it’s best to focus on three neighbourhoods: Canyon Road, Santa Fe Plaza and Santa Fe Railyard.
Canyon Road
Since it’s difficult to park your car around the Santa Fe Plaza, I’d recommend you to park it on Canyon Road and start your day over there. The area is synonymous with art (and buying it). Some 100 galleries, boutiques, studios and jewellery stores can be found on and along the half mile road. You can easily take some two hours to stroll the entire street, in case you’d like to visit a couple of those shops, discover the hidden courtyards and want to soak up the atmosphere. Along the road there are a some small lunchrooms and restaurants in case you need a break. For some nice autumn strolling, also visit – the parallel road – Acequira Madre.
Santa Fe Plaza
The real heart of Santa Fe is the Plaza. Around the square there are some 25 galleries lined up in the narrow streets. In the park you’ll find a lot of dogs, people who are reading a book in the grass, ice eating children and with a bit of luck you’ll enjoy a performance or two as well while you chill out. The Plaza is also the host of a lot of markets, such as the Santa Fe Indian Market, Traditional Spanish Market and Contemporary Hispanic Market.
Near the market is the MoCNA, the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts – worth a visit it you’d like to see a range of Native American art. In case you have little time, hop in to see the peculiarities for sale in the museum shop (I always love this part of museums :)).
Opposite the museum is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis de Assisi. It contrasts dramatically with the surrounding adobes. The cathedral was built on the site of two former churches and is adorned with many European made art.
Santa Fe Railyard
If you love markets, plan your visit on a Tuesday or Sunday. On those mornings the Santa Fe Railyard area bustles with the Farmers Market, the oldest and largest one in the state. Since the city is quite expensive, this is also a good stop to buy some food or lunch.
Apart from the market, the area is worth some more exploring, with some shops and breweries that have unfolded around the Santa Fe Depot. It’s a bit more edgy and upcoming and not as touristy as the area around Canyon and Plaza, but it’s a great place for an afternoon beer in the sun.
End the day with a fantastic meal at the nearby Paper Dosa. It’s not possible to reserve the place in advance, and if you come after 6pm you probably have to wait a bit in line (possible to do that inside on cold evenings), but if you love awesome Indian food, this really is your place to be!
Other tips
- If you have some extra hours left go to Meow Wolf Art Complex! It’s the new kid on the block among the Santa Fe attractions and an out of this world experience. The ‘house of eternal return’ transports you from a full-scale Victorian House intro wondrous realms through unexpected doors. Santa Fe resident George R.R. Martin (creator of Game of Thrones) helped the art community with the establishment of this art gallery / children’s museum / fantasy novel. Great to spark your inner creativity!
- It can be quite expensive to stay in Santa Fe itself. If you’re on a budget and have a car; opt for Agua Fría. This area is only 10 minutes away and stars a lot of AirBnB options, that are usually 1/3 of the downtown price.
- Do you love cheese? A visit to Cheesemongers on E Marcy St is a must!
- La Fonda on the Plaza – near the Plaza downtown – stars a lot of cute shops for souvenirs
- On the crossing of E Water St and Shelby St there’s a small open market, with lots of Native American local art, jewellery and souvenirs that are still affordable
- Join the Santa Feans in going for a hike. Especially in fall times the Aspen Vista Trail is marvellous to walk and unplug yourself. Another recommended route is a bit of the Dale Ball Trail.
- Want to visit another area? Go to the Museum Hill. You can easily spend a day at the Museum of the International Folk Art, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian and the Botanical Garden. Quite a lot to digest right?
Have fun over there and don’t forget to cover the day with a soundtrack!
“Sign me up Santa Fe
On the cross Santa Fe
And all I want”
